Along the main entrance to the town are some food stands, and yes there are fish tacos–this is Baja. There wasn't much going on when we arrived–many vendors were just setting up–but Tacos El Arabe was serving fish tacos, with a full array of gourmet condiments: pickled onions with olive oil and oregano, sweet pickled red onions, various salsas, guacamole, and a creamy salad of onions, olives, and tomatoes.
|Taco de pescado at Tacos El Arabe|
The tacos themselves were cooked in as they should–crisp on the outside, and tender inside–and well-seasoned inside and out, to provide satisfaction in each bite. The special condiments added levels of sweet and savory in colorful, moist dressings to exceptionally clean-battered fish strips.
|First customers of the morning at Panaderia El Boleo|
Back at the bakery was a small line to grab bags of pan dulce to–undoubtedly–accompany a cup of Nescafe–there's always a slow pace here unless you happen to be around when the ferry arrives. From Santa Rosalia you can take a ferry across the Sea of Cortez to Guaymas, Sonora on mainland Mexico; the ferry from Guaymas is an overnight trip that arrives in Santa Rosalia a few hours before the hour of pan dulce(when La Panaderia El Boleo opens).
The bakery has a short list of items from birotes( bread buns) for making tortas, sweet empanadas, sugar covered donuts, and sugary ojos de buey , or bovine's eyes that come with or without shaved coconut. Ojos de buey are two pieces of bread covered with a gritty pink frosting that are fused together by more sweet, sticky stuff–they are heavenly at El Boleo.
|Bag of pan dulce, Panaderia El Boleo|
Or you can just get a bag of pan dulce to go, which are typical birote-style pan dulce covered in light sugar, and filled with just enough nectarous spread to make this the ultimate Mexican sweet bread. It's a perfect storm of seasoned brick ovens, experienced baking, and freshness next to the calm waters of the Sea of Cortez. Look at your map and figure out how to make this a stop on your way south, or on the return trip to the States.
Santa Rosalia, Baja California Sur
Panaderia El Boleo, and Tacos El Arabe are on the main road into downtown Santa Rosalia off Santa Rosalia-Loreto Highway 1