Goro Sakurai’s Nana San has now been open almost a decade. In that time, the sushi master has dazzled fans who followed him from Ango Tei, where he used to work, as well as cultivated new ones who have discovered his omakase. In it, he tops nigiri with carefully made sauces, including a mushroom reduction that’s basically a concentrate of umami. All pieces are cut precisely, with an expert understanding that it’s not just about how the fish looks on the plate, but also how it feels in the mouth. It should be noted that Sakurai’s omakase isn’t the cheapest nor is it the most expensive; rather, it is the fairest—the one shining example that a top-notch sushi meal such as this doesn’t have to lead to bankruptcy.
3601 Jamboree Rd., Ste. 15B, Newport Beach, (949) 474-7373.
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