Wadiya is already a must-visit, given it's one of the few Sri Lankan restaurants in the United States, let alone Orange County. But those who live to destroy their palate and innards with delicious heat will eschew Mexican forever in favor of the Anaheim eatery's dishes. Pork in black curry escalates its heat slowly, like the proverbial pot of water containing a frog, until you're croaking for water to escape its dense, sweet impact. Other curries dial back the brutality, but not by much. And all meals get topped with coconut sambal, one of the world's great condiments: coconut shavings, lime juice, fermented fish and chiles chopped into small portions that belie its hellish charm.
