In the sea of new restaurants and upscale clothing stores sweeping East Fourth Street, R&R Western Wear/La Casa del Sombrero stands, silently daring the changing audience to come in and experience the old soul of SanTana. This Western store ain't going anywhere because this is where paisas from as far away as Estánton and Barra del Diamante come for the trappings of home: exotic leather dress boots with upturned toes and prices that will make you gasp for air; tejanas, both straw and felt, with as many equis as you can afford (if you can't go for at least a Stetson 10X, keep saving, primo); belt buckles; leather imitation cintos piteados; ranch shirts; and anything else you might need for that trip to the rancho in Zacatecas. You'll see güeros in there, too, but they're not skinny-jeansed hipsters, they're the last lingering generation of Orange County rednecks, there to get their Stetsons steam-cleaned, their Ariats rehabbed and their belts re-notched.
