Best Old-School Lonchera

Part of the challenge of eating at the Best Old-School Lonchera is finding where Tacos Ruben y Mulitas parks. With no official website and misinformed Yelpers fabricating a location where it never stops, the oversized truck is harder to locate than you'd suspect for a thing painted a bright M&M green. Ask for the tortillas to be freshly made to order, as many loncheras don't bother hand-forming masa into tortillas, sopes, huaraches or other vessels on site. Next, consider the many meats offered; get the suadero, a twice-cooked cut of beef that's simmered until tender, then chopped and crisped on the griddle. But what about that pylon of pork chops turning on the vertical spit and displayed prominently in the truck's front window? That would be the al pastor, marinated meat grilled on the rotisserie until the outside's lightly charred and crisp. When the truck's busy, they'll carve off slices of pork and a bit of fresh pineapple, then pile them onto your order.


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