As the Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong chain expands and gets more popular, you might discover the quality of the service starting to lag behind the quality of the meats. Thanks to the hordes of customers who line up for hours to eat its unparalleled Korean barbecue at reasonable prices, the servers at the Buena Park location and now the Irvine spot seem programmed to rush you through your meal to get the next set of customers to take your place. But you endure it because Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong’s meats are top-notch, and those grills with the built-in side troughs are a work of genius. As the fat melts, it cascades and accumulates into a well of beaten egg, turning it into the world’s best breakfast scramble. And when you do get around to eating the pork, you notice the jowls gushing juice and the slabs of pork belly rippling with scrumptious fat—every morsel as sweet as the service staff is sour.
14160 Culver Dr., Irvine, (949) 559-9678; also at 5171 Beach Blvd., Buena Park, (714) 739-9678; www.678us.com.
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