We think we know what a good flour tortilla is, but we don't. What we eat here is almost universally tripe (with no insult meant toward fatty, juicy, sweet tripe, mind you), with no flavor whatsoever, far removed from the buttery, flaky flatbread wonders of Arizona, New Mexico and Texas borne from their closeness to Northern Mexico. Thankfully, this year has seen the emergence of not only OC's first edible flour tortilla, but also a fantastic one: those made by Roland Rubalcava at his family's bakery. He got the recipe from a family friend from Sonora, where flour tortillas reach perfection, and his is right there—stretchy, slightly crispy, perfect for turning into burritos or rolling up and dunking into some menudo. If you want these miracles, call in advance: Rubalcava's only makes them by special order and by the dozen, but this will be perhaps the best $4 you'll ever spend.
