Pardon this unasimmilated Mexican, but what is the great gabacho aversion to meatloaf? I've enjoyed it the dozen or so times I've tasted the meat–not my favorite carnal creation, but also no headcheese (another much-maligned butcher offering). I thought about this on Saturday as I chomped down on a meatloaf sandwich at Memphis at the Santora in SanTana.
After years of consistently serving stellar Southern fare under the watchful eye of head chef/owner Diego Velasco, this Orange County institution is beginning to experiment in great ways. Every other Wednesday night brings Dinner with Dave, where culinary cabrón Dave Mau cooks Mexican-themed meals (who knew he was part-wab?) and brings in bands. A new, permanent Wednesday addition is barbecue. Ocassional specials include buffalo burgers (needs more gorgonzaloa) and venison burgers, along with the extraordinary fried-chicken sandwich. And this past weekend saw the introduction of a late-night menu; after the regular kitchen closes at 10 p.m., out comes a limited menu of big snacks (gumbo, fried chicken, quesadillas, pulled pork sliders) costing $5 each.
The meatloaf sandwich was like butter, so sweet and moist the slab was. It featured the slightest tang, but isn't that what makes a meatloaf, that wonderful combination of offal and other discarded delights?
Memphis at the Santora, 201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, (714) 564-1064; www.memphiscafe.com.
