The title for this new feature in
At Irvine's
At Jamillah Garden
in Tustin, order the beans as take-out ($10.82) like I did, and a
container of rice is included at no extra cost. But because they're
overcooked, the texture — its crunch and snap — disappeared long ago. What's
left was flaccid, droopy, and soggy. The flavor, however, made up the
difference. Its sauce — tangy, acidic and vinegary — served its true
purpose dribbled over the rice.
So the winner this week? Capital Seafood.
Check back next week for another episode of Dueling Dishes!
Before becoming an award-winning restaurant critic for OC Weekly in 2007, Edwin Goei went by the alias “elmomonster” on his blog Monster Munching, in which he once wrote a whole review in haiku.