Jeff Duggan of Portola Coffee, Part Three

Yesterday, we called Jeff Duggan a coffee geek. This, it turns out, was not 100% accurate; he is really more of a coffee mad scientist, the Dr. Emmett Brown of java, except, you know, with better hair. On the Line usually features a recipe from the featured chef on the third day; since this week we are featuring a coffee artisan, it makes sense that there wouldn't be a recipe per se.

Behind the jump, Jeff takes us on a tour of his favorite coffee brewing machine contraption Rube Goldberg apparatus thingy. Meanwhile, if you missed the interview portions of this week's show, they can be found here and here.

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The contraption in question looks like a Büchner funnel; it looks like a water bong; it looks like a reject from a steampunk Starbucks. The pictures sort of beggar any concise description, so we'll let Jeff explain in his own words:

The funky looking 20th-century lab piece in the pictures below is referred to
as a siphon or vacuum pot. I chose this method for a couple of
reasons.  First, there really is no cooler way to brew. Second,
this is one of the four specialized techniques we will be showcasing at
our new brewhouse in Costa Mesa, Portola Coffee Brewhouse &
Roasterie.  Again, it is all about introducing a coffee culture in
Orange County, and a large part of that is bringing attention to some of
the best ways to brew coffee. A standard commercial coffee brewer
and large capacity dispenser is not one of those ways.

OK, back to the vacuum pot.  Based on historical patent records, it appears
as though the vacuum pot was created in the 1830s or a short time
before in Germany. It basically operates with steam pressure, and
the resulting vacuum created as the environment cools and pressure
drops. Modern iterations of the siphon pot range from about $40-$100,
with the difference in price primarily a function of material cost.

I
love vacuum brewing. Although it may seem a bit overcomplicated, you
would be surprised how fast and simple of a process it really is after a
little practice. What is so special about vacuum brewing you might
ask? Other than just looking cool, of course. Coffee brewed in the
vacuum pot produces a very clean and crisp cup without the sediment, like
what is left when using the French press method. The vacuum tends to
produce flavor with brightness and intensity that is unique to this
method. Is it for everyone? No. Not everyone will appreciate the
nuanced cup profile that I describe as crisp and clean. Those
preferring heavy, more pronounced body in the cup may find the vacuum
brew a little on the light side.

Although the more pleasantly acidic,
lighter bodied coffees are best-suited for the vacuum, this is not to
say you can't throw an earthy Sumatra in there and come out with
something surprisingly palatable. I just find coffee like Kenyans,
Ethiopians, El Salvadorians, Costa Ricans, etc. to be particularly good
in a vacuum pot. It is certainly worth trying if you have never
experienced it. You too may become the mad scientist coffee geek in
your household.

5. Apply heat to bottom globe using the supplied wick burner or stove
burner if you have a stovetop model. If you figure out this vacuum
brewing is for you, you will want to invest in a nice butane burner with
a spark igniter. These can be found online where vacuum brewers are
sold. 

7. This will create a seal that will increase the steam pressure in the
bottom globe and force the water up the stem and into the upper brew
chamber where the grounds have been patiently waiting. 

8. Once all of the water is in the upper chamber, stir the water and
grounds for about 3-5 seconds to ensure all of the grounds become
equally saturated. 

13. Decide
whether vacuum brewing is for the enlightened or the insane.

Dave Lieberman