Going (Coco) Nuts doesn't taste the way it looks. Try the Four Sons Brewery beer blind, and you'd expect it to be dark and foreboding due to the chocolate-y, coconut-y, spiciness of the beer, but open your eyes and it's a nice friendly translucent amber.
Flavor-wise, it's also an enigma, made with pounds and pounds of roasted coconut but tasting more like chocolate and coco nibs, with quite possible a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg. It sounds heavy, but out of the tap it's actually light and clean, and though it starts off full of flavor, it finishes clean. It's a rare beer that's full of flavor but leaves you feeling light after draining a glass.
It's a great offering from Huntington Beach's Four Sons, which would be setting itself out from Orange County's second (or third, depending on how you're counting) generation of breweries, only if all of those breweries weren't all releasing such awesome beers.
But among the beer released by all of OC's one-ish-year-old breweries, Going (Coco) Nuts has got to be one of the most memorable. What a great time to live in Orange County.
18421 Gothard St, Huntington Beach, CA 92648. (714) 584-7501; http://foursonsbrewing.com/
You can also follow Charles Lam on Twitter @charlesnlam and Instagram @charlesnlam. He's less sardonic there, we swear.