This is a hole-in-the-wall with attitude. Fonda Mixcoac y Panaderia in Anaheim lets it be known on social media that their kitchen serves up comida Mexicana, not “Mexican food.” The restaurant also bills itself as “La Casa del Machete,” but what first drew our attention is the Nahuatl in its name, an ode to an area of southern Mexico City whose name translates to “serpent of the clouds.”
Of course, Fonda Mixcoac serves up huaraches aztecas and alambre in true chilango style. But the real fun comes in taking on El Machete, a 2-foot taco the restaurant hedges its reputation on. It’s a lot of taco, so go ahead and order a different meat for each foot. And bring a friend or two—you’ll need them. When El Machete is ready, it comes on a tray with an outstretched paper plate meant to hold the enormity hanging over the side.
Some skimpiness might be expected in the task of filling 2 feet of taco, but El Machete is solidly built all the way through. The handmade tortilla is lightly toasted without being crunchy and is sturdy enough to hold in all the meat, cheese, sour cream and lettuce that awaits. And the excellent house salsas turn up the flavor and the heat. The first bite reveals El Machete is no gimmick, but rather a damn good taco meant to slay appetites. On Miercoles Macheteros (or Machete Wednesdays, for you gabachos), Fonda Mixcoac offers a “buy one Machete and get the second one half-price” deal. But one is enough to keep you busy! Even with help, this “tallest Mexican in OC” took on El Machete and lost.
I don’t want to taco ’bout it anymore!
Fonda Mixcoac y Panaderia, 10660 Magnolia Ave., Anaheim, (714) 816-3055; www.facebook.com/fondamixcoac.
Gabriel San Román is from Anacrime. He’s a journalist, subversive historian and the tallest Mexican in OC. He also once stood falsely accused of writing articles on Turkish politics in exchange for free food from DönerG’s!