It's Lent for us papists, which means meatless Fridays. And while the gabacho Catholic ritual of fish frys are good, far better is what us Mexicans cook: capirotada and arroz de leche for dessert; chile rellenos floating in potato soup for breakfast; and the small miracle called tortas de camarones that find shrimp powder transformed into the shape of tater tots and dunked in a cactus-chile broth.
Taquerias also get into the mix, which is where Taquería El Zamorano comes in.
For the duration of the holy season, they're cooking glorious potato tacos, all about the crunch and silky papas. I usually prefer the customary repollo and crema inside the shell, but El Zamorano goes for an artistic touch by placing them on top of the tacos, accentuating the freshness of the cabbage and spiciness of the salsa. Get them while you can, though: Easter's not that far away, and that's when Mexicans return to the carnivorous cabrones we are.
Taquería El Zamorano, 925 W. Warner Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 442-3670.