When the SanTana Farmers' Market opens Thursday afternoon, as it does every Thursday, be there at 4 p.m. More specifically, be at the basket of BREAD Artisan Bakery that's holding the cheese rolls. Do not be any later than 3:59–DO NOT. If you do, best of luck-actually, shame on you, because by then the hordes would've probably already cleared out the Farmers' Market breakout star: BREAD's cheese rolls.
Eaten at room temperature, the rolls are spectacular: cheese splotches reduced to cracklins, bread as fluffy as cotton candy inside, with jalapeños judiciously placed throughout. But put it through the oven for just a bit, and BREAD's cheese rolls transform into the divine. A sheen of cheese melts out of its fried prison to impart a comforting cheddar taste. The bread bubbles inside steam up just the tiniest bit, adding warmth with each bite. And the edges of the roll become bacon–there's just no other way to describe it.
But, again: get there at 3:59. I once got there at 4:45–laughable. "No more cheese rolls," the nice man who runs BREAD's stand told me. "You think they'll be available at this time next week?" I asked. "Nope," he replied.
DUDE, NO CHILL. 3:58 it is, then…
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