Bistro Papillote Serves Simple, Spectacular French

Laurent Brazier has always cut an imposing figure in the OC food world—how can't he? Tall, built like a tight end, with a gleaming dome and an assertive French accent, Brazier first made waves the past decade with his Picayo in Laguna Beach, which brought Gallic charm to the seaside town. He then opened La Cuisine Culinary Arts, a Costa Mesa cooking school that teaches everything from knife skills to sauces. And only the best OC foodie parties get catered by his team.

Earlier this year, Brazier opened Bistro Papillote, a small place at the OC Mix with a tiny dining room, an outdoor patio and a counter cut from the seating by a walkway. That's him usually in the kitchen, separated from the world by a window, as if he's in a display case for everyone to gawk at. If Brazier is bothered by the staring eyes of hipsters on their way to Portola in the morning, it doesn't show in his unflappable demeanor or his excellent food. He doesn't go for the flair of Picayo or try to keep up with his neighbors (Taco María, Pueblo, ARC). This is French cuisine at its most rustic. The crepes, whether sweet or savory, are airy yet substantial—Nutella, a hearty ratatouille, a breakfast crepe heavy on the Mornay sauce. Better are the sandwiches: a worthy muffaletta, a simple one of ham and Swiss cheese enlivened by cornichons, and a croque monsieur that's like eating a buttery pillow, so filling and comfy it is. Brazier's strong, expert hand is on everything: The tarts have perfect crusts, and the quiches are almost milky. Even something as simple as roasted vegetables—Brussel sprouts, asparagus and cauliflower, to be exact—become extraordinary with the addition of herbs and butter. And speaking of butter: I'm sure you'll find half a stick in his escargot.

This is a cute place, perfect for a quick meal and to spend some time catching up on your reads. The only real issue I have with Papillote is the lack of hot sauce. Yeah, it's a French restaurant, and the French are all about cultural integrity. But we are in Mexico after all. . . . Vive la différence!

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