Yes, Holstein's Shakes and Buns is a Las Vegas import that just opened in South Coast Plaza. Yes, the music at the bar is loud and seemingly piped straight from Ryan Seacrest's brain into your ears. And all the graffiti-like images of cows gets a bit Banksy after a while. But the burgers are great, and their adult shakes delicious. Even better, the cocktails are on point, unafraid to move past vodka and play around with ingredients. Consider the Barrymore.
It's a drink as regal as its surname: Gentleman's Jack, blood orange liqueur, with a splash of sweet vermouth and orange marmalade on the bottom. Sweet, tangy, and hella strong, it's a great introduction to the Holstein's way: games on their big screens, free-flowing cocktails, and a clientele that brings down the South Coast Plaza median dining age by a couple of decades. Go now!
Holstein's Shakes and Buns, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 352-2525; www.holsteinsburgers.com.