Say you're a whiskey drinker. There's nothing but love for the other spirits; you simply happen to like the taste of brown over clear. But what if you end up at a gin event? With your luck, you'll find yourself sitting across from a rep for something fancy such as Nolet's. You'll admit your allegiance to whiskey, and they'll ask you kindly to be more open to gin. And that is how Nolet's Have Another winds up in front of you at Two Left Forks.
Barrel-aged gin commingles with elderflower, then basil and grapefruit juice. By themselves, each flavor can hold its own. Assemble them in the same glass, and they all play well together. It helps cut through some of the richness found in dishes such as a New York strip. It's even agreeable enough that you consider a repeat performance. Score one for subliminal advertising.
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Two Left Forks, 6511 Quail Hill Pkwy., Irvine, (949) 387-6700; also 34212 Pacific Coast Hwy., Dana Point, (949) 489-8911; www.twoleftforks.com.