Deep, deep in the highlands of the Mexican state of Guerrero, a place known more for the cruise ships that ply the city of Acapulco and the silver stands of inland Taxco, lies one of the gastronomic destinations of Mexico: Teloloapan, the home of mole rojo guerrerense.
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While the states of Oaxaca and Puebla garner all the glory for the
complex, thick sauces known worldwide for their smoky, rich flavor and
the improbable amount of work that goes into making them, they do not
have a Mexico-wide monopoly on the term. Sure, Oaxaca has its famed
seven moles, and mole poblano finds its way onto menus even at
Americanized eateries, but the mole rojo of Teloloapan is a hidden gem.
The downtown Santa Ana door of Mole Teloloapan is kept locked; rattle it
gently or tap quietly on the window, and one of the family will let you
in. Step inside the door, and your sense of smell will be assaulted with
the odor of smoky chiles, rich spices and the slight acrid tang of bitter
chocolate. This is a utilitarian space, where the Rivas family re-create
the famed sauces of its hometown and a few fried snacks, such as duritos
and plantains.
There are two sauces here: The mole rojo contains dried chiles, sesame seeds,
bitter chocolate, and a pantry's worth of herbs and spices. The mole
verde is more like a pipián, a fresh greenish sauce made with pumpkin
seeds and salt. Both have the same directions: heat in a pan with enough
chicken or turkey stock to make the sauce have the correct, thick
texture–but due to the higher salt content of the mole verde, it'd be
best to use plain water.
The mole rojo was a stunning burgundy color when thinned with chicken
stock and, like its Pueblan and Oaxacan cousins, went over the meat like
satin. The sauce has an immediate burn reminiscent of pasilla chiles,
followed by a slightly tannic, slightly bitter aftertaste that
complements dark-meat poultry perfectly and could even be spread on
thick slices of steak.
The mole verde was much, much thicker and required much more liquid; it
was not completely smooth, but lapped over the meat it covered in a very
appealing manner. This is a sauce to eat with the less-flavorful parts
of the chicken, such as the breast or wing–not overwhelming, but strong
enough to lend its taste even to a very thick piece of meat.
Most people making mole at home use the yellow jars of Doña María (the
most popular brand of prepared mole, available in any Mexican market),
but there's simply no comparison. The Rivas' moles are as close as a
home cook will get to the moles abuelita makes without recourse
to a comal and grinding stone. As an added bonus, if you buy straight
from the factory, it's cheaper–$4 per pound for the mole rojo and $6 per
pound for the mole verde, each of which makes enough with chicken or turkey
to serve 8 to 10 people.
Mole Teloloapan (Rivas Food Co.), 413 N. Broadway, Ste. A, Santa Ana, (714) 972-0607; molerojo.com.
