Restaurant Reviews

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North Shore Poke Co. Has a Poke-Man North Shore Poke Co. Has a Poke-Man
Shawn Gole's Huntington Beach restaurant finally gives the Hawaiian standard its full, undivided attention
, April 12, 2012
We Mainlanders like to stereotype Hawaiians as obsessed with heavy meals such as plate lunches or loco moco, but the true religion is poke. A... More >>
Mick's Karma Bar Is Burger Heaven In Hell
[Hole In the Wall] This Irvine gem makes amazing hamburgers from a corporate Irvine office tower
, April 12, 2012
No restaurant in Orange County deserves an upgrade in location more than Mick's Karma Bar. From this former juice stand come some of the best... More >>
CUCINA enoteca Is the San Diego Treat CUCINA enoteca Is the San Diego Treat
Irvine's version of a San Diego restaurant that flies against Donald Bren's beige boringness
, April 05, 2012
We sat under a leafy olive tree. If not for butcher-paper placemats, the cold, metal surface of our table would've sapped the warmth from the... More >>
Taqueria Two Guys Cheeses It
[Hole In the Wall] This Santa Ana Mexican restaurant loves its cheese, damn the authenticity
, April 05, 2012
First things first: if you haven't already read it 80 times in this issue, read it again: My long-promised book, Taco USA: How Mexican Food... More >>
Class 302: A Course to Audit Class 302: A Course to Audit
The Irvine restaurant teaches you well with its grade-school theme and Taiwanese food
, March 29, 2012
You're sitting at an actual wooden school desk. There's a cubbyhole for stowing your books and an indentation carved at the top so your pencil... More >>
Moros Cuban Restaurant Has Mondo Mojo
[Hole In the Wall] This La Habra dive impresses every possible way
, March 29, 2012
In the world of searing condiments, few are as caustic as a properly made mojo de ajo—olive oil spiked with garlic, the soy sauce of Cuba. Too... More >>
The Starling Diner's Fine French Toast The Starling Diner's Fine French Toast
Dealing with epic lines for wonderful meals at the Long Beach breakfast institution
, March 22, 2012
You might better know the mile-long stretch of Anaheim Street between Atlantic and Junipero in Long Beach as Cambodia Town, the center of all... More >>
Mitla Cafe Is the Restaurant That Birthed Taco Bell
[Hole In the Wall] This San Bernardino landmarks deserves a pilgrimage from all lovers of Mexican food
, March 22, 2012
This week marks the 50th anniversary of Taco Bell, the Irvine-based giant that fundamentally changed how Americans consume Mexican food. But 2012... More >>
The Riders Club Cafe Goes Back to Basics The Riders Club Cafe Goes Back to Basics
This San Clemente dive makes a damn-fine burger
, March 15, 2012
When I re-evaluate the best burgers I've eaten in my life, the most memorable are usually from dives, greasy spoons, places where I can see,... More >>
Namastey India Chaat Up the Haters
[Hole In the Wall] This Buena Park Indian restaurant is leading the city's subcontinental renaissance
, March 15, 2012
In 1999, Buena Park residents loudly protested when a group of Hindus proposed to build a massive temple in the city that Knott built. "I don't... More >>
THE RANCH Offers a Fistful of Dollars THE RANCH Offers a Fistful of Dollars
Extron owner Andrew Edwards has invested major coin into his restaurant and saloon
, March 08, 2012
It's said that Walt Disney created Disneyland because he wanted a place to spend time with his daughters. Andrew Edwards, the owner and president... More >>
Pho Binh Sells Vietnamese Taquitos?
[Hole In the Wall] This Santa Ana restaurant sells pho, bun and other Vietnamese faves to a Latino clientele
, March 08, 2012
In the wild and wacky world of food translations, few have proven more good-natured-but-incongruous than what the owners of Pho Binh in Santa Ana... More >>
Orea Taverna's Greek Chic Orea Taverna's Greek Chic
Tony Ghosn updates his family's beloved Sophia's
, March 01, 2012
There are two things you must get at Orea Taverna: the saganaki and the pyato souvlaki. Both are table spectacles of the kind that make you turn... More >>
Taqueria La Poblanita Embraces the Nuevo
[Hole In the Wall] This Anaheim eatery sells quesadillas more deity than tortilla
, March 01, 2012
There was no such thing as regional Mexican restaurants in Anaheim while I was growing up in the 1980s and 1990s. There were tacos made similar... More >>
Ramen Yamadaya Offers Oink Noodle Ramen Yamadaya Offers Oink Noodle
The first OC restaurant of this LA titan simmers the piggiest soup in Costa Mesa
, February 23, 2012
Ramen Yamadaya's tonkotsu ramen is the closest thing to melting a whole pig into a bowl. The broth is so thick and so rich the viscosity is... More >>
The Chippy Is an Office Park Fish Fry
[Hole In the Wall] This Irvine food court gem makes Orange County's best fish and chips—and more
, February 23, 2012
The Palm Cafe Food Court in Irvine might be the ugliest place to eat in Orange County: a large hall with inexplicably high ceilings, rickety... More >>
Jason Quinn Will Meet You at the Playground Jason Quinn Will Meet You at the Playground
Inside the hyperkinetic career of the novice chef-turned-cooking star
, February 16, 2012
RULE NO. 1: NO KETCHUPJason Quinn loves ketchup, but he won't serve it because he can't make ketchup that is "not evil." Heinz and Hunt's, he... More >>
Mozambique Peri-Peri Does the Mazavaroo Mozambique Peri-Peri Does the Mazavaroo
This Newport Beach restaurant is the cheaper, fast-casual sister of the venerable Laguna Beach original
, February 16, 2012
The last time I ate the woefully underappreciated sausage called boerewors, it was at a now-shuttered South African bar in Long Beach. It's as... More >>
Huong Giang Is Hue Great
[Hole In the Wall] This Little Saigon standard excels with the dishes of Central Vietnam
, February 16, 2012
They sit at every table at Huong Giang in small glass bowls: long, smooth, fire-engine-red peppers pulsating with the promise of their alluring... More >>
Han Yang Has a Bone to Pick Han Yang Has a Bone to Pick
This Buena Park restaurant takes Korean food and its beef short rib soup beyond the borders of Little Seoul
, February 09, 2012
Have you noticed? Little Seoul, once constrained within the confines of Garden Grove, is slowly spilling into sections of Buena Park, spreading... More >>
HOT DOGS HOT DOGS HOT DOGS: One From the Cart
[Hole In the Wall] A Santa Ana food cart makes bacon-wrapped hot dogs and other Mexican street treats
, February 09, 2012
Don't believe the hype about street food taking over Orange County in the past couple of years—there is no such scene outside of Santa Ana. Luxe... More >>
Bru Grill and Market Features Drunken Masters Bru Grill and Market Features Drunken Masters
This Lake Forest restaurant offers beer-can chicken and other delicious alcohol-laced oddities
, February 02, 2012
I'm willing to bet that most people have never met beer-can chicken in the flesh. You may have seen the dish on a recent episode of Top Chef:... More >>
Chow, Bella, at Ciao! Deli and Pizzeria
[Hole In the Wall] The Costa Mesa dive perfects Italian-American classics
, February 02, 2012
"I've turned into a food snob," managing editor Nick Schou told me as he watched me scarf down a bowl of caesar salad at Ciao! Deli & Pizzeria in... More >>
The Playground Is the Brotherhood of the Purple Pants The Playground Is the Brotherhood of the Purple Pants
'The Great Food Truck Race 2' co-winner Jason Quinn opens his long-awaited restaurant
, January 26, 2012
Complacent and apathetic aren't traits you want in a chef, and the words certainly don't describe Jason Quinn, who made waves last week for... More >>
Hoa Sen Serves Cheatin' Chicken
[Hole In the Wall] The Garden Grove Vietnamese dive sells fake meats even a Midwesterner could love
, January 26, 2012
The appearance of the vegetarian lemongrass chicken at Hoa Sen is limp, almost revolting: dun-colored lengths of soy shaved to the thinness of... More >>
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It was Sunday night at Peking Dragon Restaurant in Dana Point, one of only three Chinese eateries in the seaside city, and every Naugahyde booth was taken. You had to… More >>

Papa's Fish & Soul Food Is Super!

"That sauce bit you in the end, right?" the owner of Papa's Fish & Soul Food in Anaheim cracked from across the dining room, and I had to nod yes.… More >>

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