Restaurant Reviews

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Seoul Kitchen
What, me cook?
, March 02, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceYou could say that Seoul Garden Korean Barbecue violates the First Commandment of Dining Out: Thou shall not cook. But you'd... More >>
Sonny's and Share
Monster sauce for all my friends
, February 24, 2000
Photo by Joy BastThere's a Italian-food rite of passage, beginning with Chef Boyardee when you're 4, progressing through pizza and spaghetti, and... More >>
Jamaica fares well at Irie
, February 17, 2000
Those Jamaicans—what a sense of humor. Their ganja is mellow, and the reggae is cool, but who knew about the hot little devil that lurks within... More >>
The Longest Yard
Wait the wait, and eat the steak
, February 03, 2000
There is ridiculous, and then there is the Yard House. I'd heard the new überbrewpub/restaurant with 180 taps in Triangle Square was popular, and... More >>
Cool Thing
Opah adds life to Aliso Viejo
, January 20, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceBeing the best restaurant in Aliso Viejo is a little like being the richest man in Haiti, and for that reason, it's a... More >>
The Wronged Cobb
Its a great saladwhen its made right
, January 13, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceSouthern California's contribution to American cuisine should not be overlooked. Contemporary fast-food burger culture began... More >>
Peace Meal
The borderless delights of Pakistani and Indian food
, December 23, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceSo right after Pakistan's government melted down again—and democracy's friend, George W. Bush, publicly speculated that a... More >>
Bistro Chic
Fish so good, we got emotional
, December 16, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceI don't normally go for restaurants named after Yul Brynner movies, but I'll make an exception for Anastasia. At first... More >>
Getting to the basics of ungodly Mexican food
, December 09, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceThere's working fast food. And then there's what Leopaldo does. Leopaldo Gonzalez makes tortas at El Gallo Giro, a... More >>
Theres a High in My Soup
Rutabegorzs soups are right-on
, December 02, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceI love food trivia, and few foods have a better story than, of all things, soup. The first evidence of soup dates back to... More >>
The Raw and the Cooked
Getting to the heart of Irvines Chinese subculture
, November 18, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceOutsiders would never guess it, but Irvine is a teeming hotbed of excellent Chinese and Japanese restaurants. The city's... More >>
Taps Dancing
Stop calling North County Ethiopiav
, October 14, 1999
Photo by Joy BastWe're told by our friendly server at Taps Fish House and Brewery that the place is not named for the traditional military dirge.... More >>
Southwestern Lives!
The trend is dead, but the flavor remains
, September 30, 1999
Southwestern went out so long ago Pearl Jam was still big. This came as a relief to those of us sick of salmon-colored walls with teal touches... More >>
Blue-Collar Ribs
Chris & Pitts for the people
, September 23, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceChris & Pitts—rib purveyor to the working class—has meant so much to so many for so long. The several locations are settings... More >>
Meaty Byproducts
Pondering the German festival and knee-high socks
, September 09, 1999
I had never seen an ox's ass up close before, and if you haven't either, let me spare you the experience. It's big—terrifyingly big—and makes me... More >>
Chapman Bites!
Panther power fueled by great eats
, September 02, 1999
Photo by Johan VogelForget about Cal State Fullerton and UC Irvine. If I'm going back to college, I'm going to Chapman University. I may not... More >>
Big and Greasy
The breakfast of patriots
, August 26, 1999
Photo by Johan VogelIt's morning; I'm in Laguna Beach and in need of cholesterol. This concept is lost on the thin, melanomic beachgoers... More >>
Gypsy Den World?
Wed still eat there
, August 19, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceThe Gypsy Den has opened a second restaurant in the Artists Village in Santa Ana, and so help me, Carl Karcher and Martin... More >>
New Squid on the Block
Three places to celebrate invertebrates
, July 29, 1999
Photo by Jeanne RiceWith its tapered body and unique texture and flavor, squid is high on my list of favorite things to eat. But somewhere along... More >>
High Boss
Grabbing respect - and good grub - at Thai This
, August 20, 1998
Jib "hi, bosses" all his customers. Say, "Hi, boss" back, and he'll admonish you, "No, YOU the boss." Then, more likely than not, he'll stick a... More >>
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Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

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