Restaurant Reviews

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Paradise Regained
The teeming tanks of Sea Food Paradise
, August 24, 2000
I once lived in a seafood paradise out on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, halfway between Clallam and Dungeness bays. It didn't matter that I... More >>
Ice Box Memories
Getting fat, if not phat
, August 17, 2000
Photo by Patricia InsheiwatMy vividest memories of growing up in Orange County include Thrifty's drugstore, Lucci's Deli and my hunt—still... More >>
Pacific Rim Job
Dukes goes back to the islands
, August 03, 2000
Photo by Patricia InsheiwatI stumbled upon Duke's restaurant in Malibu years ago (it couldn't have been more than four years ago because that's... More >>
Feet, Meters, Rellenos
How to measure a Mexican restaurant
, July 27, 2000
Photo by Jack GouldOur standard measure of a Mexican restaurant's worth is the chile relleno. This roasted pepper stuffed with cheese (or meat... More >>
Champagne Curiosity
If youre rich, you already know about the Golden Truffle, so keep moving. The rest of you may stay
, July 20, 2000
Photo by Joy BastI'm constantly looking for experiences that allow me to transcend my class. Not that I'm poor or anything: I was born solidly... More >>
Pretty Vacant
Citrus City Grille, Grille, Grille, Grille...
, July 13, 2000
Photo by Keith MayOur county has an early-to-bed reputation, and there is evidence to support it, like the fact that you don't need a reservation... More >>
A guide to our Advertisers
, June 29, 2000
Abilene Rose 10830 Warner Ave., Fountain Valley, (714) 963-1700 If you have a taste for authentic Texas barbecue, look no further. The menu at... More >>
Where famous people eat!
, June 29, 2000
Photo by Jack GouldJim Righeimer Teacher-bashin', labor-bustin' OC politico, real-estate guy, and Lord of Darkness. Righeimer was afraid we were... More >>
Jenny Lane
, June 29, 2000
Professional wrestler. Lane was plucked out of a crowd at one of Rick Bassman's wrestling shows. "He said, 'Look at the girl! She's going nuts!... More >>
Jeremy Popoff
, June 29, 2000
Photo by Jeanne riceLit guitarist, late riser and International Superstar. Breakfast: "I'm usually not up in time for breakfast, but Allen... More >>
Joe Foster
, June 29, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceGuitarist, the Killing Flame; graphic designer. BREAKFAST: "'Brunch' is a more accurate word when I think of eating in the... More >>
Joey Racano
, June 29, 2000
Photo by Mark SavageGuitar-playing environmental activist. Lives in his trailer in Huntington Beach. Plays music at local bars and at the pier,... More >>
Jason Weeks
, June 29, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceGuitarist, the Orangemen. BREAKFAST: "On Sundays, the Tiki Bar in Costa Mesa has a 99-cent special that comes with... More >>
Yahoo for Wahoos
Theres no better fish taco. Period.
, June 22, 2000
Photo by Keith MayWhile it's not exactly as unethical as the journalistic blowjob the Los Angeles Times Magazine famously gave the Staples... More >>
Barbecouscous
Tulsa meats tabouli in Orange
, June 15, 2000
Photo by Jack GouldThere are as many styles of barbecue as there are places to throw meat over coals. Santa Fe barbecue (mesquite wood) is as... More >>
Transmigration of Sol
The food comes from all over the planet but ends up pleasantly in your belly
, June 08, 2000
Photo by Debra DiPaoloDining with our photographer is always an adventure. She's good company, never at a loss for something to say. And she's... More >>
Not Like Mom Used to Make
Phillips chicken pies really fly
, May 25, 2000
Photo by Joy BastEnvironmental writer Jennifer Price's mind-bending book Flight Maps: Adventures With Nature in Modern America(Basic Books)... More >>
Kashk-e-bademjan!
Darya is really something
, May 18, 2000
Photo by Joy BastThat, uhhh, probably goes real good on, uhhh, something," cracks my old high school buddy Rod, proving he's still a master of... More >>
Jazz and Italian
A Mulberry Street that makes its own improvisations
, May 11, 2000
Photo by Joy BastOur infrequent visits to New York and its jazz clubs always include a pilgrimage to Little Italy's Mulberry Street. The narrow,... More >>
No Possum Here
Johnny Rebs aint the Waffle House
, May 04, 2000
Photo by Keith MayWhen I spotted the new Johnny Rebs' Southern Roadhouse in Orange, I laid rubber to get inside and glory in the exquisite... More >>
Holy Cats!
Favoris fabulous catfish doesnt taste like chicken
, April 27, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceI wasted plenty of my youth tempting catfish out of the muck of Midwestern rivers. The bait was spoiled chicken organs or,... More >>
Edible Mall Food
I see Tu Tu Tango in your future
, April 13, 2000
Photo by Joy BastTu Tu Tango's spaghetti-squash-colored walls are splashed floor to ceiling with the most fabulous garage-sale art depicting... More >>
Sustained!
Juror No. 11 makes a case for Civic Center eats
, April 06, 2000
Photo by Joy BastI recently spent two long weeks doing time in the jury box of Department 32 in Santa Ana's Central Court. After taking enough... More >>
Wavy Vegetarian Gravy
Rutabegorz is still groovy
, March 30, 2000
Located in the historic Tustin Company Building since 1978, Rutabegorz has the groovy feel of a restaurant on Berkeley's Solano Street. Some of... More >>
Wavy Vegetarian Gravy
Rutabegorz is still groovy
, March 30, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceLocated in the historic Tustin Company Building since 1978, Rutabegorz has the groovy feel of a restaurant on Berkeley's... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Little La Lune: Over the Moon Little La Lune: Over the Moon

Little La Lune is located on an unpretty part of Pacific Coast Highway, in a strip mall with less than 10 parking spots—and they're all taken. But stay in your… More >>

Il Barone Bottega: Third Wave Italian

Il Barone, in that section of Newport Beach near John Wayne Airport that's basically a laid-back Irvine, is great old-school Italian, the kind of place you take the in-laws to… More >>

O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne

"Would you like a mimosa or champagne?" the server asks as you're seated at O'Neill's Bar & Grill inside the Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club in Mission Viejo. "A mimosa, please," you… More >>

Front Porch Pops: Just Lick 'Em

So . . . I'm getting married soon. I've picked some of my favorite businesses to help out with the catering—Taco Maria's Carlos Salgado and Roland Rubalcava to do aguachile… More >>

Santa Ana Revival at the North Left Santa Ana Revival at the North Left

The North Left is what replaced the Crosby, which closed abruptly earlier this year in the wake of a tragic beating death that occurred outside its doors. But for all… More >>

Tamarindo Truck: Maestro de Meats

Tamarindo Truck doesn't need this review. It's already a popular luxe lonchera, finding a loyal following with its twists on Mexican food using organic produce and meats. I've delayed reviewing… More >>

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