Restaurant Reviews

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Heres to Empire
News flash: Persian food now American
, October 04, 2001
Photo by Joy BastSometimes you have to wonder if all the huge machinations of nations—the empire-building and -losing, the wars and... More >>
Z Marks the Spot
Fine dining in Irvine rises 50 percent
, September 27, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceFor a city that likes to think it's the best place to live—not merely in Orange County but perhaps in all of the United... More >>
Hope for Humanity
Few play with their food as well as Pinot Provence
, September 27, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldHave you given blood yet? You should, you know. There is damn little else we can do to help right now beyond your opening a... More >>
Hi-Fi Food!
Oranges Filling Station pumps up the vittles
, September 20, 2001
Photo by Joy BastNations have gone to war to claim lands with a Mediterranean climate. What more is there to desire than a verdant, ocean-kissed... More >>
Feel Not Sorry for the People of Anaheim Hills
Theyve got Rosines Mediterranean Rotisserie & Grill
, September 13, 2001
Photo by Joy BastI feel sorry for people in the Anaheim Hills. There, in the northeasternmost part of the county, they get OC property taxes... More >>
Familiarity Breeds Contentment
Punjab isnt flashy, but fabulous
, September 13, 2001
Photo by Jack GoulThe many regional cuisines of India are amazingly diverse, but you wouldn't know that by dining in Orange County's Indian... More >>
Pedal to the Griddle
OCs Hottest Cakes
, September 06, 2001
When I first got pregnant, I predicted that my much-altered state would enhance my appetite; outfitted in the latest one-size-fits-all maternity... More >>
Come for the Catfish
Stay for the wreck of the Titanic
, August 23, 2001
Photo by Joy BastThe weathered west-side Costa Mesa strip mall Costa Brava calls home is a one-stop center for Mexican food, a place where small... More >>
Holy Mole!
Kicking back among the Aztec heroes of El Matador
, August 16, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldWhen I want to impress upon a visitor that Orange County isn't just a Lysol-redolent bedroom community but rather a land of... More >>
Real life at Charlies Chili
, August 16, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldThe other Saturday, a buddy and I got out of a movie near midnight. Wandering down the ghost town that was the Balboa... More >>
A Guide to our Advertisers
, August 09, 2001
A Guide to Our Advertisers Aloha Grill 221 Main St., Ste. F, Huntington Beach, (714) 374-4427 In the heart of downtown Huntington Beach, you will... More >>
Death Row Decision!
Wahoos or Baja Fish Tacos?
, August 02, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI went to lunch with Kresal the other day. "Where are we going for lunch?" I asked. "How about the Mexican place next to the... More >>
Gaza Strip Mall
Meating the paste in northwest Anaheim
, July 26, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldHead down to Anaheim, on Brookhurst Street between La Palma and Katella, and you're likely to see Somali refugees shopping... More >>
New Heaven in Old World
Chef Paolo Pestarino gets his own place
, July 26, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI don't remember a lot of my friends' and relatives' birthdays, but I can tell you when Newport Beach's Issay restaurant... More >>
Hapi Accident
Each meal at Hapi Sushi is a delightful exploration of the unknown
, July 19, 2001
Photo by Joy BastMy education in sushi came at knifepoint. At Hapi Sushi, I watched in astonishment as an elderly Asian man, presumably Japanese,... More >>
Hookah Party!
Smoky flavors at Open Sesame
, July 12, 2001
Photos by Joy BastIn the white-bread Long Beach section of Belmont Shores, four Middle Eastern men toke on a hookah outside a restaurant by a... More >>
Mahe Wowie!
Sushi and meat, together at last
, July 05, 2001
Photo by Joy BastSouthern Californians have a way of transforming food from its original state to something else, usually involving artichoke... More >>
Toss Your Chalupas
And march over to El Metate
, June 28, 2001
Photo by Joy BastIn front of the former Circle K that houses the Mexican grocery El Metate sit derelict shopping carts salvaged from Michael's,... More >>
Civil Service
One vote for Skosh Monahan
, June 28, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceDo you have any idea if your local representatives really serve you? You probably don't go to city council meetings, and for... More >>
Hummus a Few Bars
Substance over style at Orchid
, June 14, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldFor millennia, the people of the Mediterranean have fought and even killed one another over matters both sublime and... More >>
Worth A Cluck
Surf Citys sublime Chicken Co.
, June 07, 2001
If the phrase weren't trademarked, we'd tell you that at Huntington Beach's Chicken Co., they do chicken right. Instead, we'll tell you that they... More >>
Insane In the Membrane
How to cook Santa Monica Seafoods yummy shellfish
, May 31, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceSometime after my then-future wife moved to California from Massachusetts, we stopped by Albertsons to pick up some steamers,... More >>
Masa of Your Domain
The great South County tamale search
, May 24, 2001
Photo by Joy BastThe tamale survived the murderous Cortés, but can it survive Americanization? Sí. Much of the tamale-eating experience is about... More >>
Fear Not, Haole!
Nothing packs the gut like tender Spam!
, May 17, 2001
Photo by Joy BastForget that touristy pig-on-a-spit, fish-and-poi, hula stuff. At L&L Hawaiian Barbecue, you'll eat what Hawaiians really eat:... More >>
Thyme and Space
Anastasia is many places in one
, May 10, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceOn one recent post card-perfect Southern California day—belly agrowl, brain in desperate need of coffee, my biggest dilemma... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Little La Lune: Over the Moon Little La Lune: Over the Moon

Little La Lune is located on an unpretty part of Pacific Coast Highway, in a strip mall with less than 10 parking spots—and they're all taken. But stay in your… More >>

Il Barone Bottega: Third Wave Italian

Il Barone, in that section of Newport Beach near John Wayne Airport that's basically a laid-back Irvine, is great old-school Italian, the kind of place you take the in-laws to… More >>

O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne

"Would you like a mimosa or champagne?" the server asks as you're seated at O'Neill's Bar & Grill inside the Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club in Mission Viejo. "A mimosa, please," you… More >>

Front Porch Pops: Just Lick 'Em

So . . . I'm getting married soon. I've picked some of my favorite businesses to help out with the catering—Taco Maria's Carlos Salgado and Roland Rubalcava to do aguachile… More >>

Santa Ana Revival at the North Left Santa Ana Revival at the North Left

The North Left is what replaced the Crosby, which closed abruptly earlier this year in the wake of a tragic beating death that occurred outside its doors. But for all… More >>

Tamarindo Truck: Maestro de Meats

Tamarindo Truck doesn't need this review. It's already a popular luxe lonchera, finding a loyal following with its twists on Mexican food using organic produce and meats. I've delayed reviewing… More >>