Restaurant Reviews

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Small and Inviting
Scamper over to Scampi
, March 14, 2002
Photo by Joy BastMassimo Navarretta came to this country from Italy 24 years ago, a young man looking for action. He'd spent time in New York and... More >>
Oh, My Sinuses!
Rutabegorz has the cure
, March 07, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceI felt lousy. My head was stuffy, and my stomach was queasy. I was cranky, beat, and just sick and tired of all the phonies... More >>
Cool. Classy. Next to Vons Martini Blues enlivens HB
, February 28, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceHuntington Beach's newest supper club originated as a gift from an automobile wholesaler to his show-biz-enraptured wife,... More >>
Suzie Wong Meets Lazy Susan
Peking Restaurants wheels of fortune
, February 21, 2002
Photo by Joy BastI walk past some shabby storefronts, past a seedy bar, and duck into a Chinese restaurant. It is austere, even homely. Hanging... More >>
Mi Casa, Tu Jagerhaus
Anaheim eatery combines authentic German food, Mexican chef
, February 14, 2002
Photo by Nick SchouAnaheim's Jägerhaus Authentic German Restaurant doesn't look like much from the outside. The modest restaurant occupies a... More >>
Dr. Mike
Health, thy name is hooch
, February 14, 2002
Photo by OCW staffA recent study found that alcohol staves off dementia. A few weeks after that, Time magazine included red wine as one of its... More >>
Shhhhhhhhhhh!
Mmmmmmmm!
, February 07, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceAl Milo is director of the Fullerton Public Library. Yes, he likes books, and yes, he talks softly. When we spoke to him over... More >>
Soul Food Man
DJ Danny Love loves the gumbo
, February 07, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceBorn in whiter-than-white Boulder, raised in whiter-than-that Yorba Linda, DJ Danny Love was nevertheless a soul man with a... More >>
Papa Joes Pizza Is Good
Beachfront pizza the way nature intended
, February 07, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceThe people at Papa Joe's Pizza don't want me to die. They're just nice that way. They see me come in just about every day,... More >>
Meat Knowlwood!
In this carnivores paradise, the veggie burger is best
, January 24, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceWay back when my father used to bounce me on his knee, he'd take the family to Knowlwood for burgers. All I can remember from... More >>
Coffee Crusade
The great Little Saigon coffee inquiry
, January 24, 2002
Forget dapper muleteer Juan Valdez: the new face of cheap coffee is Vietnamese. Vietnam sped past Colombia in 2000 to become the world's... More >>
Martha Stewart for Manson
Where to eat before talking to a murderer
, January 17, 2002
Photo by Stacy DaviesMy neighbor's a forensic psychologist. Think Jodie Foster in Silence of the Lambs but with a Doris Day disposition. Dr. Jody... More >>
Pho-buloso!
El Camino, Kim Loan bridge the Soup Divide
, January 17, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceSoup for breakfast? ¿Porqué no? Among Vietnam and Mexico's many other sociocultural similarities (both screwed by Catholic... More >>
The Father of Peppino
A summertime Christmas story
, December 27, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldThis is the season for stories about the redemption of weary, hungry travelers who arrive after dark in a strange land to find... More >>
Will You Marris Me?
A find just off the 405
, December 13, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceThe wife and I recently decided to dine before a show at the Carpenter Center for the Performing Arts, but there were a... More >>
Burrito History
Nick Zampino and the dawn of the burrito
, November 29, 2001
Photo by Joy BastNick Zampino has no evidence, no proof, no corroborating facts or photographs, but he swears he knows in his heart that his... More >>
Size Matters
Biggers better at 230 Forest Avenue
, November 15, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceWhat a difference a wall makes. If your stomach has a long memory, it might recall me reviewing Laguna's Vertical Wine Bar a... More >>
Yes, Whey
Pacific Whey Cafe is big with the breakfast set
, November 08, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceIt's no coincidence that breakfast is the favorite meal of the hung-over and the still drunk. In their vulnerable state,... More >>
Sushi Master in Training
Lessons from Wasabi & Sushi
, November 01, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceCall me a traditionalist: I like my coffee black, my hairstylist gay, and my fish deep-fried. Sure, I've been dabbling in... More >>
The Sage of Newport
This aint the fat boy in the checkered trousers
, October 18, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceI like wine, but I don't know much about it. I don't subscribe to Wine Snit magazine, and I generally drink whatever's $5 or... More >>
The Costa Mesa of North County
Brea enlists Cedar Creek in war on bland
, October 18, 2001
Photo by Joy BastToo much "American cuisine" is all kitsch and gimmick—consider the Claim Jumper with its miner-49er theme and outrageously large... More >>
Little Dublin
Seal Beachs battle for the blarney heats up
, October 11, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceThis I know: every person who writes about restaurants—even the most persnickety snob—harbors a deep and abiding love for... More >>
Nice Bangers!
Gallaghers re-defines pub food
, October 11, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceDining in downtown Huntington Beach has long been a dicey proposition. From its wild oil-town days as Southern California's... More >>
Continental Drift
Brittas brings Europe a little closer
, October 04, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldIt's not all neutrinos and stem cells at UC Irvine. "So, have you been to Britta's yet?" asks a molecular biologist who's... More >>
Heres to Empire
News flash: Persian food now American
, October 04, 2001
Photo by Joy BastSometimes you have to wonder if all the huge machinations of nations—the empire-building and -losing, the wars and... More >>
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From the Print Edition

The Breakfast Bar's a Good Egg The Breakfast Bar's a Good Egg

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Grill Cafe Should Rename That Koobideh!

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Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

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Sahuayo Primo Offers Pig By the Pound

They sit there at Sahuayo Primo in SanTana all the time: golden sheets or strips of chicharrones, fried morning, noon and night, slowly baking under hot lamps. The stacks of… More >>

Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

If you happen to find yourself slurping braised beef noodle soup in Irvine, you're likely in a Taiwanese restaurant. The big names in town—A & J, Lao Dong, Chef Hung—are… More >>

Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

California is America's burrito empire, from the Mission cylindrical god of San Francisco to San Diego's California burrito to the Inland Empire's garbage burrito, which I described to a friend… More >>

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