Restaurant Reviews

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Go for the Gold
Stay for the Crispy Crackle catfish
, July 04, 2002
Ever hear of the Culinary Olympics? Probably not, but they do exist, and they're a big deal among the high-stakes sauce-and-cleaver crowd. Think... More >>
Vamos, Vamos a Reginas
Food, soccer and more of each
, June 27, 2002
Photo by Gustavo ArellanoOn a tiny strip of Garden Grove's Westminster Boulevard, Argentina lives. Here, Argentines nostalgic for the motherland... More >>
Expensive Tastes
Flemings provides the steak, you bring the dough
, June 20, 2002
Photo by Keith MayThe other Friday night, I decided to take my wife to a nice restaurant. At the end of the evening, the bill came to $155,... More >>
How Delicious
Veggies, cocktails and cow tongue with DJ Wanda
, June 20, 2002
Photo by Stacy DaviesJulie Espy is the general manager of KUCI-FM 88.9 in Irvine and DJ Wanda, host of the psycho-/rocka-/bluegrass-billy show... More >>
Mmmmmm, Subjugation
Banh mi and tortas: The French connection
, June 13, 2002
Photo by Steve LoweryYou have to hand it to the French. Unlike their genocidal English and rapist Spanish counterparts, the Frenchies' most... More >>
Looks Good, Tastes Great
Same old new Memphis
, June 13, 2002
Photo by Steve LoweryIf the new Memphis restaurant in Santa Ana's Artists Village were actually in Memphis, Tennessee, there'd be a lot more... More >>
Hidden Treasure
Cafe Lafayette worth looking for
, June 06, 2002
Photo by Steve LoweryWe had spent a couple of hours at Sport Chalet stocking up on provisions for a backpacking trip, and all that dwelling on... More >>
Adobo a Go-Go
Fast food done right
, May 30, 2002
Photo by Keith MayAh, fast-food restaurants: killers of taste, expanders of waists. Eric Schlosser wants to eliminate you, while activists... More >>
Straw Dog
Short on berries, short on fun
, May 30, 2002
Maybe the thought of sharing strawberry shortcake with 250,000 other people is your idea of fun. Maybe macramé plant holders entice you. Maybe... More >>
Fast Food
The beast, the burrito, the glory
, May 16, 2002
Photo by Keith MayIn less time than it took War Emblem to win this year's Kentucky Derby, a guy named Wes won the ninth-annual Cinco de Mayo... More >>
Huarache Me!
Lifting the curse of 800 W. Lincoln Boulevard
, May 09, 2002
Photo by Gustavo ArellanoThe perfect location for a restaurant is 800 W. Lincoln Boulevard in Anaheim. It's across the street from Anaheim High... More >>
Frenching, Italian-Style
Caffe Panini takes the Mc out of breakfast
, May 02, 2002
Photo by Christian WalshMom always said breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Then she'd roll back over and sleep till noon, and I'd... More >>
Beer, Beer, Beer
Anthill Pub, a place to get beer
, May 02, 2002
Photo by Steve LoweryThe brainiacs at UC Irvine can't find the Anthill Pub even though it's on the third floor of their Student Center. "There is... More >>
Intrinsic Meatness
Firehouses sides kick your visit over the top
, April 25, 2002
Photo by Courtney OquistConsider the potato chip—go on, ya mug, consider it—reclining quietly near that brisket sandwich of yours (mmmm,... More >>
The Accidental Vegetarian
Al-Sanabel makes you forget meat
, April 18, 2002
Photo by Joy BastWhen I entered Al-Sanabel Bakery in Anaheim for the first time, I nearly walked right back out. I'm a meat man, and Arabic-style... More >>
Of Meat and Men
Calvin Free spreads the gospel of beef
, April 11, 2002
Photo by Keith MayGiven the chance, my cats would eat me. It would be an accident, of course. I'd fall and hit my head, and then I'd be dead.... More >>
Sweet, Sweet Tang
Godzilla vs. Red Pearl Kitchen
, April 11, 2002
Photo by Chris ZieglerI spend a lot of time in Huntington Beach. I go there when I want police helicopters to follow me as I walk my dog, when... More >>
Shell Shock
Turtles, my father and the most disgusting odor
, April 04, 2002
Illustration by Bob AulI was wrapping up an interview with Serge Dedina, director of the California-based environmental group Wildcoast when he... More >>
The Rich Are Different
They eat in museums
, April 04, 2002
Photo by Keith MayMaybe you occasionally treat yourself to six-day weekends at seaside villas in foreign places where one-legged lepers are swept... More >>
Seduced by Flour Chips!
The lure of Ricardos El Ranchito
, March 28, 2002
Photo by Joy BastThey will come, unquestionably, to Ricardo's El Ranchito. They will come on their way to and from their shopping excursions for... More >>
Big Tips
Waiting for good dough
, March 21, 2002
Going out to eat means dealing with waiters and waitresses. Or, more accurately, going out means waiters and waitresses have to deal with you. To... More >>
You Gotta Really Like Fish
Kasen hates California rolls, likes Californians
, March 21, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceThis is a review of the Japanese sushi restaurant Kasen. If you read this review and decide that Kasen sounds like a... More >>
Political Soup
He hates Commies, loves Double-Doubles
, March 14, 2002
Photo courtesy of Frank HamannFrank Hamann is among a group of people who frequently send the Weekly letters to the editor that never appear in... More >>
Small and Inviting
Scamper over to Scampi
, March 14, 2002
Photo by Joy BastMassimo Navarretta came to this country from Italy 24 years ago, a young man looking for action. He'd spent time in New York and... More >>
Oh, My Sinuses!
Rutabegorz has the cure
, March 07, 2002
Photo by Jeanne RiceI felt lousy. My head was stuffy, and my stomach was queasy. I was cranky, beat, and just sick and tired of all the phonies... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

If I told you that you can have a burger and beer at Eureka! (their exclamation point, not mine), the new restaurant in Huntington Beach's Bella Terra, that'd be enough,… More >>

Sahuayo Primo Offers Pig By the Pound

They sit there at Sahuayo Primo in SanTana all the time: golden sheets or strips of chicharrones, fried morning, noon and night, slowly baking under hot lamps. The stacks of… More >>

Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

If you happen to find yourself slurping braised beef noodle soup in Irvine, you're likely in a Taiwanese restaurant. The big names in town—A & J, Lao Dong, Chef Hung—are… More >>

Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

California is America's burrito empire, from the Mission cylindrical god of San Francisco to San Diego's California burrito to the Inland Empire's garbage burrito, which I described to a friend… More >>

Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi

Do you turn up your nose at those sushi bar Know-Nothings who would make a thick, creamy sludge out of their soy sauce and wasabi? Do you know what brand… More >>

Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

Don't mind the sign near the entrance of Ellie's Table At North Beach that says, "Line Starts Here." Actually, scratch that: If there is a line, follow it. But in… More >>