Restaurant Reviews

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Hookah Party!
Smoky flavors at Open Sesame
, July 12, 2001
Photos by Joy BastIn the white-bread Long Beach section of Belmont Shores, four Middle Eastern men toke on a hookah outside a restaurant by a... More >>
Mahe Wowie!
Sushi and meat, together at last
, July 05, 2001
Photo by Joy BastSouthern Californians have a way of transforming food from its original state to something else, usually involving artichoke... More >>
Toss Your Chalupas
And march over to El Metate
, June 28, 2001
Photo by Joy BastIn front of the former Circle K that houses the Mexican grocery El Metate sit derelict shopping carts salvaged from Michael's,... More >>
Civil Service
One vote for Skosh Monahan
, June 28, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceDo you have any idea if your local representatives really serve you? You probably don't go to city council meetings, and for... More >>
Hummus a Few Bars
Substance over style at Orchid
, June 14, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldFor millennia, the people of the Mediterranean have fought and even killed one another over matters both sublime and... More >>
Worth A Cluck
Surf Citys sublime Chicken Co.
, June 07, 2001
If the phrase weren't trademarked, we'd tell you that at Huntington Beach's Chicken Co., they do chicken right. Instead, we'll tell you that they... More >>
Insane In the Membrane
How to cook Santa Monica Seafoods yummy shellfish
, May 31, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceSometime after my then-future wife moved to California from Massachusetts, we stopped by Albertsons to pick up some steamers,... More >>
Masa of Your Domain
The great South County tamale search
, May 24, 2001
Photo by Joy BastThe tamale survived the murderous Cortés, but can it survive Americanization? Sí. Much of the tamale-eating experience is about... More >>
Fear Not, Haole!
Nothing packs the gut like tender Spam!
, May 17, 2001
Photo by Joy BastForget that touristy pig-on-a-spit, fish-and-poi, hula stuff. At L&L Hawaiian Barbecue, you'll eat what Hawaiians really eat:... More >>
Thyme and Space
Anastasia is many places in one
, May 10, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceOn one recent post card-perfect Southern California day—belly agrowl, brain in desperate need of coffee, my biggest dilemma... More >>
Salvadoran Slugfest
Food as a tool of peace
, May 03, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI have a Salvadoran friend (I'll call him "Sal") who gets pissed-off whenever someone calls him a Mexican. After he's finished... More >>
White Thai
Silk Thai would be the softer side of Thai
, April 26, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceI used to breathe fire with the best of them—used to compete for the highest taste-bud body count, scorch the skin right off... More >>
Mexico, Mexico-Style
Of mariachis, tequila and mole
, April 26, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceA true Mexican restaurant is named after an unpronounceable Mexican town. Its tequila is so sweet that you will drink the... More >>
Meat!
Lotus Cafe still great at the meat masquerade
, April 12, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceThere is no better appetizer than the scent of good food luring you into a restaurant—especially if the mouth-watering smells... More >>
Andean Heater
Inka Grill keeps things spicy, Peruvian-style
, March 29, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldWe survived the Gringo Killer—twice. When the Inka Grill in Costa Mesa—a warm little restaurant with a rag-painted,... More >>
Fakin Bacon!
At Au Lac, even the strictest vegans can make pigs of themselves
, March 15, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldIt's lonely at the top of the food chain if you're a vegan—or so I would assume. Some of my best friends are among the... More >>
Here is Cod's Plenty
The great fish and chips search
, March 15, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldThe first thing I noticed about my take-out box o' fish and chips from Silky Sullivan's was that instead of a lemon wedge,... More >>
Instant Ritz
Saratoga Grill feels like its been here forever
, March 01, 2001
Some indigenous peoples of the Southwest dwelled in cliffs. The Spaniards and Mexicans who came later used clay and straw to shape adobe bricks.... More >>
Southeast Asia With a Car Wash
Eat, clean and see merry
, February 08, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldIt seems like a dish from a bad Vincent Price movie: red curry with coconut milk. Does this meal, combining the ephemeral... More >>
Dave Garofalo Eats Here!
But, it turns out, not very often
, January 18, 2001
Don't look for checkered tablecloths, fake grape arbors dangling from doorways, or wicker-bottomed bottles of chianti. Lucci's Deli is more... More >>
True Believers
Our encounter with authentic Sicilian
, January 11, 2001
Photo by Keith MayHalf-Italian, I've eaten at my fair share of Italian restaurants, including the Olive Garden (Il Ristorante Denny's), and there... More >>
Every Sandwich an Adventure!
A couple of hero-crazy kids try living the dream
, December 28, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceA quick look around Super Hero's reveals it's a very new restaurant: the paint's still shiny, the counters are absolutely... More >>
Tacos and a Side of Tacos
Fine dining under $4
, December 21, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceWhen I spotted the Taqueria Mexico sign in a strip mall off Katella, visions of a torta stuffed with meat, lettuce and... More >>
Valhalla on Earth
Smorgasbord the way Thor intended
, December 14, 2000
Photo by Keith MayIn a culinary ranking of nations, Sweden would fall somewhere between exquisite French delicacies and bland English slop. Only... More >>
Cant Beat Their Meat
Its all about steak at Stubriks
, November 23, 2000
Photo by Joy BastGetting a decent steak in Orange County is a real grind. Most steakhouses in the upper bubbles of OC consist of themed joints... More >>
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