Restaurant Reviews

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For the 52nd State
A quartet of classic American dishes
, March 13, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulWith our syllable-challenged prez determined to make Iraq the 52nd state after Afghanistan, what foods will our newly... More >>
Honduran Holiday
Dance and eat snail soup at La Glorieta
, March 13, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsHonduras' greatest entry in the Latin American songbook is "Sopa de Caracol" (Snail Soup), a relentless punta piece... More >>
Ferdussi Fetish
Santa Anas home for passionate Persian cuisine
, March 13, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoThe other day, I was host to a most wondrous dream. Bill Clinton had just been elected Emperor for Life. And in honor of this... More >>
Piscean Post-Prandials
Five birthday desserts, free like your mom
, March 06, 2003
Illustratiion by Bob AulThe older I get, the less sex interests me. Food is my new sex. That is I don't mind paying for it, but I'll take it for... More >>
Hoe-Cakes, Onie-Style
A son of the South praises fried grits
, March 06, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsIn retrospect, I realize my formative years were like something out of a novel by Carson McCullers or maybe Harper Lee.... More >>
Eat That Turo-Turo, White Boy!
Grilled pig cheeks and La Palma lumpias at Ellens Pinoy Grille
, March 06, 2003
Photo by James BunoanA recent article on lamented the anonymity of Filipino cuisine in this country. "We would say our food is... More >>
Ice Age
Fighting Bushs apocalypse with smoothies
, February 27, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsLadies and geeks, say hola to global warming! The Southland weathered one of the balmiest Januarys on record, a muggy... More >>
Man Breasts, Mini Golf and Pad Thai
Apres-golf stomach stuffing at Sweetee Thai
, February 27, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoWhat is it about physicians? The chaps always want you to shed tonnage. Why, I was on a routine trip to have my fellow Dr. Leo... More >>
Mickey the Mason
Behind the door of Uncle Walts exclusive Club 33
, February 20, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulDeep in the heart of the Happiest Place on Earth, Disneyland's semi-secret restaurant Club 33 beats like a pacemaker.... More >>
Happy Accidents
Chen Yen keeps tradition tasty at Cafe Calypso
, February 20, 2003
Photo by Jeanne RiceIf the streetfront patio outside Café Calypso is the perfect place to enjoy a spiced chai tea with a breakfast bagel melt or... More >>
Noorani Nosh
Gobbling down beef brains in Garden Groves Little Karachi
, February 13, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsHidden among the pho palaces and bánh mì bistros of Garden Grove's Little Saigon is Little Karachi. It's not big as far... More >>
Guillotines and Escargots
Enjoy a bit of Paris in Little Saigon
, February 06, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsI'm not certain why watching guillotines slice off the heads of aristocrats during the French Revolution's Reign of... More >>
A Big, Hairy, Nutty Root!
Youngs Polynesian Produce Paradise brings you taro
, February 06, 2003
Photo by OCW staffThe faded sign outside Young's Market in Santa Ana proudly proclaims, "Polynesian Food." For haoles ("non-islanders" in... More >>
Surfin Chicken Safari
Old pals, piquant poultry and memories a-plenty at San Clementes Bird Nirvana
, January 30, 2003
I spent the Saturdays of my youth cramped with the family inside a battered 1986 Ranger as it swerved toward Tijuana in search of affordable... More >>
Bloody Tube Steak and Cherie Blair
Gaga over black pudding and the PMs wife
, January 16, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulSo here I lie, my feet up in the air, dreaming of a big, black, bloody sausage. That may sound like the opening line of a... More >>
Meat, Meat, Meat, Meat, Meat
Amazon Churrascaria is a place for meat
, January 16, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsTwo things to do before entering Fullerton's Amazon Churrascaria: 1) eat nothing for a week; 2) loosen that belt... More >>
Construction Cuisine
Navigating the asphalt jungle
, January 09, 2003
Photo by James BunoanOC should stand for "Ongoing Construction." Ever since the Spaniards forced Indians to erect Mission San Juan Capistrano... More >>
Dropping Names
Gulfstream 2002formerly Cowboy a space odyssey
, December 26, 2002
Photo by Jessica Calkins Her eyelids had the iridescent hue and slow flutter of a Blue Morpho butterfly's wings. And few could look as good in... More >>
Eat, Then Dance at Thai Hot Pot
, December 26, 2002
Photo by Jessica Calkins During the day, Thai Hot Pot& BBQ is just another business in Anaheim's Thai Town, two perpendicular strip malls on the... More >>
Wandering the Dessert
Sarkis Pastry finds prosperity, peace in Anaheim
, December 19, 2002
Photo by Jessica CalkinsAbout 80 years ago, millions of Armenians fled their country to escape the genocidal wrath of Turkey. They scattered... More >>
Koi-Boy Toy
What do Koi Restaurant and naked fat men in saunas have in common?
, December 19, 2002
Photo by Mark DanceyEating at Seal Beach's Koi Restaurant reminds me of getting my back scrubbed by a naked septuagenarian. And that, my friends,... More >>
Hu, Mi?
Four Ways to Enjoy BB Restaurant
, December 12, 2002
Photo by Jessica CalkinsAnaheim's BB Restaurant is one of the county's better non-Little Saigon Vietnamese eateries because it concentrates on... More >>
All About the Antojitos
Indulge your antojo at Pupuseria San Sivar
, December 05, 2002
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe Spanish menu entry antojitos translates as "appetizers," but the expression connotes more than mere snacks. It... More >>
Wanna Seafood?
O Sushi Cafe satisfies eaters of raw fish and cooked meat alike
, November 28, 2002
Photo by Jessica CalkinsO Sushi Café in Brea was packed with beautiful people the night my party of five arrived, so lacking a reservation... More >>
Sexpert Advice
Dr. Tina tells you what to put in your mouth
, November 21, 2002
Photo by Jeanne Rice at the Long Beach Museum of Art, another Dr. Tina favorite.Self-help books are lame. My friend, Dr. Tina Tessina, who has... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Little La Lune: Over the Moon Little La Lune: Over the Moon

Little La Lune is located on an unpretty part of Pacific Coast Highway, in a strip mall with less than 10 parking spots—and they're all taken. But stay in your… More >>

Il Barone Bottega: Third Wave Italian

Il Barone, in that section of Newport Beach near John Wayne Airport that's basically a laid-back Irvine, is great old-school Italian, the kind of place you take the in-laws to… More >>

O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne

"Would you like a mimosa or champagne?" the server asks as you're seated at O'Neill's Bar & Grill inside the Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club in Mission Viejo. "A mimosa, please," you… More >>

Front Porch Pops: Just Lick 'Em

So . . . I'm getting married soon. I've picked some of my favorite businesses to help out with the catering—Taco Maria's Carlos Salgado and Roland Rubalcava to do aguachile… More >>

Santa Ana Revival at the North Left Santa Ana Revival at the North Left

The North Left is what replaced the Crosby, which closed abruptly earlier this year in the wake of a tragic beating death that occurred outside its doors. But for all… More >>

Tamarindo Truck: Maestro de Meats

Tamarindo Truck doesn't need this review. It's already a popular luxe lonchera, finding a loyal following with its twists on Mexican food using organic produce and meats. I've delayed reviewing… More >>