Restaurant Reviews

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Size Matters
Biggers better at 230 Forest Avenue
, November 15, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceWhat a difference a wall makes. If your stomach has a long memory, it might recall me reviewing Laguna's Vertical Wine Bar a... More >>
Yes, Whey
Pacific Whey Cafe is big with the breakfast set
, November 08, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceIt's no coincidence that breakfast is the favorite meal of the hung-over and the still drunk. In their vulnerable state,... More >>
Sushi Master in Training
Lessons from Wasabi & Sushi
, November 01, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceCall me a traditionalist: I like my coffee black, my hairstylist gay, and my fish deep-fried. Sure, I've been dabbling in... More >>
The Sage of Newport
This aint the fat boy in the checkered trousers
, October 18, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceI like wine, but I don't know much about it. I don't subscribe to Wine Snit magazine, and I generally drink whatever's $5 or... More >>
The Costa Mesa of North County
Brea enlists Cedar Creek in war on bland
, October 18, 2001
Photo by Joy BastToo much "American cuisine" is all kitsch and gimmick—consider the Claim Jumper with its miner-49er theme and outrageously large... More >>
Little Dublin
Seal Beachs battle for the blarney heats up
, October 11, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceThis I know: every person who writes about restaurants—even the most persnickety snob—harbors a deep and abiding love for... More >>
Nice Bangers!
Gallaghers re-defines pub food
, October 11, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceDining in downtown Huntington Beach has long been a dicey proposition. From its wild oil-town days as Southern California's... More >>
Continental Drift
Brittas brings Europe a little closer
, October 04, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldIt's not all neutrinos and stem cells at UC Irvine. "So, have you been to Britta's yet?" asks a molecular biologist who's... More >>
Heres to Empire
News flash: Persian food now American
, October 04, 2001
Photo by Joy BastSometimes you have to wonder if all the huge machinations of nations—the empire-building and -losing, the wars and... More >>
Z Marks the Spot
Fine dining in Irvine rises 50 percent
, September 27, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceFor a city that likes to think it's the best place to live—not merely in Orange County but perhaps in all of the United... More >>
Hope for Humanity
Few play with their food as well as Pinot Provence
, September 27, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldHave you given blood yet? You should, you know. There is damn little else we can do to help right now beyond your opening a... More >>
Hi-Fi Food!
Oranges Filling Station pumps up the vittles
, September 20, 2001
Photo by Joy BastNations have gone to war to claim lands with a Mediterranean climate. What more is there to desire than a verdant, ocean-kissed... More >>
Feel Not Sorry for the People of Anaheim Hills
Theyve got Rosines Mediterranean Rotisserie & Grill
, September 13, 2001
Photo by Joy BastI feel sorry for people in the Anaheim Hills. There, in the northeasternmost part of the county, they get OC property taxes... More >>
Familiarity Breeds Contentment
Punjab isnt flashy, but fabulous
, September 13, 2001
Photo by Jack GoulThe many regional cuisines of India are amazingly diverse, but you wouldn't know that by dining in Orange County's Indian... More >>
Pedal to the Griddle
OCs Hottest Cakes
, September 06, 2001
When I first got pregnant, I predicted that my much-altered state would enhance my appetite; outfitted in the latest one-size-fits-all maternity... More >>
Come for the Catfish
Stay for the wreck of the Titanic
, August 23, 2001
Photo by Joy BastThe weathered west-side Costa Mesa strip mall Costa Brava calls home is a one-stop center for Mexican food, a place where small... More >>
Holy Mole!
Kicking back among the Aztec heroes of El Matador
, August 16, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldWhen I want to impress upon a visitor that Orange County isn't just a Lysol-redolent bedroom community but rather a land of... More >>
Nighthawks
Real life at Charlies Chili
, August 16, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldThe other Saturday, a buddy and I got out of a movie near midnight. Wandering down the ghost town that was the Balboa... More >>
A Guide to our Advertisers
, August 09, 2001
A Guide to Our Advertisers Aloha Grill 221 Main St., Ste. F, Huntington Beach, (714) 374-4427 In the heart of downtown Huntington Beach, you will... More >>
Death Row Decision!
Wahoos or Baja Fish Tacos?
, August 02, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI went to lunch with Kresal the other day. "Where are we going for lunch?" I asked. "How about the Mexican place next to the... More >>
Gaza Strip Mall
Meating the paste in northwest Anaheim
, July 26, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldHead down to Anaheim, on Brookhurst Street between La Palma and Katella, and you're likely to see Somali refugees shopping... More >>
New Heaven in Old World
Chef Paolo Pestarino gets his own place
, July 26, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI don't remember a lot of my friends' and relatives' birthdays, but I can tell you when Newport Beach's Issay restaurant... More >>
Hapi Accident
Each meal at Hapi Sushi is a delightful exploration of the unknown
, July 19, 2001
Photo by Joy BastMy education in sushi came at knifepoint. At Hapi Sushi, I watched in astonishment as an elderly Asian man, presumably Japanese,... More >>
Hookah Party!
Smoky flavors at Open Sesame
, July 12, 2001
Photos by Joy BastIn the white-bread Long Beach section of Belmont Shores, four Middle Eastern men toke on a hookah outside a restaurant by a... More >>
Mahe Wowie!
Sushi and meat, together at last
, July 05, 2001
Photo by Joy BastSouthern Californians have a way of transforming food from its original state to something else, usually involving artichoke... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Is Eleven46 Kitchen the Chipotle of Vietnamese Cuisine? Is Eleven46 Kitchen the Chipotle of Vietnamese Cuisine?

We all seem to think we know how to run a restaurant regardless of whether we've ever owned or operated one. So when you find yourself in a restaurant that… More >>

Lindo Michoacán #2: Fond of the Fonda

Here's the dirty secret about Mexicans in Orange County and Mexican food: most of us nos vale madre that so many regional treasures exist in these parts. If you're from… More >>

Carne Asada In OC Carne Asada In OC

Get with the Reconquista, people: This is carne asada country, so stop trying to slow-roast 'cue in some overpriced contraption, only to get results not worthy of a Memphis trash… More >>

Peking Dragon's Sweet-and-Sour Splendor Peking Dragon's Sweet-and-Sour Splendor

It was Sunday night at Peking Dragon Restaurant in Dana Point, one of only three Chinese eateries in the seaside city, and every Naugahyde booth was taken. You had to… More >>

Papa's Fish & Soul Food Is Super!

"That sauce bit you in the end, right?" the owner of Papa's Fish & Soul Food in Anaheim cracked from across the dining room, and I had to nod yes.… More >>

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