Restaurant Reviews

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Five horchata heavens
, May 15, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulHorchata is the optimal summer drink: deceptively sweet and served colder than a Newport Beach socialite's blood.... More >>
It Aint Easy Being Cheesy
Takin a dip with Berlin Jim at the Melting Pot
, May 15, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe last time I had hard cheese and stale bread, I threw them in the damn trash. What was I thinking? I should've... More >>
Dave doesn't eat here!
Five HB Italian restaurants not affiliated with the city's execrable ex-mayor
, May 15, 2003
Illustration by Bob Aul I don't know about you, but I prefer to avoid restaurants run by convicted felons, which means I won't ever patronize... More >>
Palo Fields
The majestic meals of Caspian Restaurant
, May 15, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe two marble sphinxes guarding the entrance of Caspian Restaurant are probably the least opulent features of this... More >>
Cinco de Yummo
Five Mexican Mexican restaurants to fiesta at during Cinco de Mayo
, May 08, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulMexicans in Mexico don't celebrate Cinco de Mayo, so if you're going to observe this sham holiday, please do it right. For... More >>
Domo Arigato, Mr. Natto
Learning to love Japans stinky weapon of culinary destruction
, May 08, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsNever a day passes that this portly penman doesn't give thanks to Zeus for granting me the good fortune to marry my... More >>
Empire Eats
Five restaurants to chew on our last imperial century
, May 01, 2003
Quiz: What American president with visions of a new world order said, "I ask the Congress to authorize and empower the President to take measures... More >>
Veggie in the Box
Esthers fast food for granola eaters
, May 01, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsIt's about 9:45 on a muggy Monday morning when a chubby guy pulls up a stool inside Esther's Place and notices that no one... More >>
Calgon, Take Me Away!
Five escapist eateries to make you forget our screwed-up world
, April 24, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulWar. The SARS virus. Bush's inevitable re-election. Cher's new album. Why, it's not even worth picking up the dailies... More >>
Boar War
Blubber-bound blowhard battles Tony Bourdain for the favor of his beloved at Yi Dynasty
, April 24, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsI'm distressed to admit it, dear readers, but it has come to my attention that this jelly-bellied journalist is... More >>
Cookie Toss
Five bakeries where county cookie monsters can munch out
, April 17, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThose wacky Dutch get credit for the word cookie, adapted from koekje, or "little cake," though it was probably the... More >>
Give the Satyr a Brew
Scouting Santa Ana for superior lunches
, April 17, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsRickety lunch trucks begin traversing the county around midmorning, hopping from worksite to worksite, seeking famished... More >>
Ground-Zero Grub
Drive-by dining when North Korea drops the big one
, April 10, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulRemember North Korea? The Hermit Kingdom ruled by a nutcase with a bad fro, a massive porno collection and a penchant for... More >>
Fromage Fanatic
A turophiles tale of cheese hunting in the county
, April 10, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulI don't know what came over me the other evening. I was at home, curled up with pipe in hand and slippers on feet,... More >>
Temple of Tofu
Luck for everyone at Van Hanh Vietnamese Restaurant
, April 10, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsA lucky-cat shrine greets all who enter Van Hanh Vegetarian Restaurant, a majestic temple of tofu, dramatic lighting and... More >>
Fire In the Hole!
A nickel-bag of platters to paint your uvula red
, April 03, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThere's nothing quite like the rush of eating something so spicy-hot that it feels like the band Great White performed on... More >>
Chewing the Chatpatas
From Bollywood to La Palma with Haldirams Indian Munchies
, April 03, 2003
Supriya Bharadwaj, distribution manager for the La Palma offices of Indian snack food maestros Haldiram's, recently sent me some Bollywood films... More >>
Dick's Picks
Five spots to chow down at after visiting the Nixon Library
, April 03, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulSo you finally made it to the Nixon Library in Yorba Linda, and the day has been chock-full of Dick! You visited the plot... More >>
Kiss My Cassoulet!
Flabby Francophile defends Gauls, dines at Bistro le Crillon
, April 03, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoNothing has made me more livid of late than the anti-Gallic fervor abroad in the land caused by the Franco-American rift over... More >>
Ask the Soup Nazi
Five joints to get your slurp on
, March 27, 2003
Illustration by Bob Aul Away with anemic consommés and bland, canned broths. Give us instead the world in a bowl, a symphony for the senses, a... More >>
Le Petit Chef
Fat Bastard and Little Big Man do lunch at Foscari
, March 27, 2003
Photo by Jeanne RiceTable for two at Foscari's, Anaheim Hills. In the chair facing the kitchen, Michael Lee Gogin, a.k.a. "Little Big Man."... More >>
Blood and Ceviche
Violently good Sinaloan seafood at Mariscos Licenciado #2
, March 27, 2003
Photo by James BunoanSinaloa is home to drug families that make the Calí and Medellín cartels seem like Quakers. It's the birthplace of... More >>
For the 52nd State
A quartet of classic American dishes
, March 13, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulWith our syllable-challenged prez determined to make Iraq the 52nd state after Afghanistan, what foods will our newly... More >>
Honduran Holiday
Dance and eat snail soup at La Glorieta
, March 13, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsHonduras' greatest entry in the Latin American songbook is "Sopa de Caracol" (Snail Soup), a relentless punta piece... More >>
Ferdussi Fetish
Santa Anas home for passionate Persian cuisine
, March 13, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoThe other day, I was host to a most wondrous dream. Bill Clinton had just been elected Emperor for Life. And in honor of this... More >>
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Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

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Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

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Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

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Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi

Do you turn up your nose at those sushi bar Know-Nothings who would make a thick, creamy sludge out of their soy sauce and wasabi? Do you know what brand… More >>

Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

Don't mind the sign near the entrance of Ellie's Table At North Beach that says, "Line Starts Here." Actually, scratch that: If there is a line, follow it. But in… More >>