Restaurant Reviews

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Cross-continental fusion
Uncle Al amalgamates the world through sauce
, September 04, 2003
When Uncle Al cooks up catfish po'boys and hush puppies, he's thinking of the Volta Delta, not Mississippi. "These meals are not... More >>
Love Your CountryEat American
A Guide to Orange Countys Best U.S. City Meals
, August 28, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsTime was that a drive through the United States meant stopping at local diners and chowing down on regional dishes. But... More >>
Pine Nut Paradise
Breakfast, lunch and dinner with the Hawaris at Kareems
, August 21, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsOwners Mike and Nancy Hawari are the sole employees of Kareem's Restaurant, and the waiters/cooks/hosts coddle their... More >>
Where Bread Is King
Make a Pilgrimage to Jamillah Garden
, August 14, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsIslamic Chinese cooking is a rarity in Southern California, eclipsed by $1 combo plates, fried rice and a nice side of... More >>
Crepes Cest Bon!
Dreaming of Paris in America
, August 14, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsMy fellow study-abroaders and I arrived in Paris in 1998 sleep-deprived, famished and smelly. We staggered toward a little... More >>
Goat Spine And More
Enjoy Tijuanas Anarch at El Rincon Del Oso
, August 07, 2003
Photo by Gustavo ArellanoTo reach El Rincón del Oso, get on the I-5 south and drive—past San Clemente, past Camp Pendleton and San Onofre, past... More >>
Back in the Grill Again
Ignore the kitsch and eat at Pinnacle Peak
, July 31, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoWatched intently by a papier-mâché steer standing atop the roof of Pinnacle Peak, the faithful trudge in from various points... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Four restaurants for rice
, July 17, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulLike soccer, the metric system and goodwill toward man, rice is a staple nearly everywhere but the United States.... More >>
So Good, Youll Wish You Were Sick
Hoag Hospital food is Newport Beach class at cafeteria prices
, July 17, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThey certainly looked like doctors, though they were dressed like you or me. They didn't have any surgical tools or... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five carne asada carnicerias
, July 10, 2003
Non-Mexicans and pocho Mexicans alike plead cultural ignorance as the reason for not preparing carne asada every weekend as they should. Mierda.... More >>
En Mi Viejo Senor Big Ed
Recreating Puerto Rico in Cypress
, July 10, 2003
The autographed pictures dotting Señor Big Ed's kitchen wall qualify the Cypress eatery as a Puerto Rican Hall of Fame. Anaheim Angels catcher... More >>
En Mi Viejo Senor Big Ed
Recreating Puerto Rico in Cypress
, July 10, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe autographed pictures dotting Señor Big Ed's kitchen wall qualify the Cypress eatery as a Puerto Rican Hall of Fame.... More >>
Diarmuid and Fergals Place
Not just another pub
, July 03, 2003
My mother, ever the inquisitive student of world culture, once shamed me by asking an Irish friend how, exactly, it was possible there were... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five summer school spots
, July 03, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThe college graduation season concluded about two weeks ago only to make way for summer school, that pedagogic playground... More >>
Meal of the Marauders
Eating the present past at Genghis Khan
, June 26, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsA bronze relief hanging from a wall in Genghis Khan restaurant in Fullerton depicts a smiling family outside a ger, the... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five Complimentary Condiments
, June 26, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThe meal is grand, delicious . . . but something's missing, that certain yo no sé quéthat catapults a dish toward the... More >>
Checklist Please
Five frozen fancies
, June 19, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulWhether eaten from a tub or a crunchy cone, bought at the grocery store or made at home, ice cream remains humankind's... More >>
Night of the Living Burrito
Actress Judith ODea eats skin, shellfish
, June 19, 2003
Photo by Ward BoultIn 1967, industrial commercials filmmaker George A. Romero and his Latent Image production company decided to try their hand... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five Duck Dinners
, June 05, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulFace it, New Jersey Devils devotees: the only ducks your ice idols will be carving up during this Stanley Cup final are... More >>
Sarmale Sentiments
Reliving Love, Cabbage Rolls at Dunarea Restaurant
, June 05, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoHer name I can't remember, but those eyes and cabbage rolls remain. She was Romanian, this mademoiselle, a classmate of mine at... More >>
Vacuuming in the Nude!
Candy sets the summer on fire
, May 29, 2003
Photo by Jill MoranCandy Woodward started surfing when she was 12. It was the late '60s, and girls weren't even allowed to be junior lifeguards,... More >>
Checklist, Please?
Five Sublime patios
, May 29, 2003
Patio dining is especially apt during the summer, when kind weather allows diners the opportunity to chow down alfresco. The following... More >>
Checklist, Please?
Five sublime patios
, May 29, 2003
Patio dining is especially apt during the summer, when kind weather allows diners the opportunity to chow down alfresco. The following... More >>
Loaves of Love
Five Cultures, Five Sandwiches
, May 22, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulLegend has it that John Montague, fourth Earl of Sandwich (1718-92), invented the eponymous meal after refusing to leave a... More >>
Tamale Time!
Tamales, topos and pan dulce at Panaderia y Antojitos Guatemala
, May 22, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoEvery Mesoamerican nation produces tamales, but those from Guatemala are the grandest. The country's take on this primordial... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

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Sahuayo Primo Offers Pig By the Pound

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Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

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Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

California is America's burrito empire, from the Mission cylindrical god of San Francisco to San Diego's California burrito to the Inland Empire's garbage burrito, which I described to a friend… More >>

Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi

Do you turn up your nose at those sushi bar Know-Nothings who would make a thick, creamy sludge out of their soy sauce and wasabi? Do you know what brand… More >>

Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

Don't mind the sign near the entrance of Ellie's Table At North Beach that says, "Line Starts Here." Actually, scratch that: If there is a line, follow it. But in… More >>

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