Restaurant Reviews

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Cross-continental fusion
Uncle Al amalgamates the world through sauce
, September 04, 2003
When Uncle Al cooks up catfish po'boys and hush puppies, he's thinking of the Volta Delta, not Mississippi. "These meals are not... More >>
Love Your CountryEat American
A Guide to Orange Countys Best U.S. City Meals
, August 28, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsTime was that a drive through the United States meant stopping at local diners and chowing down on regional dishes. But... More >>
Pine Nut Paradise
Breakfast, lunch and dinner with the Hawaris at Kareems
, August 21, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsOwners Mike and Nancy Hawari are the sole employees of Kareem's Restaurant, and the waiters/cooks/hosts coddle their... More >>
Where Bread Is King
Make a Pilgrimage to Jamillah Garden
, August 14, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsIslamic Chinese cooking is a rarity in Southern California, eclipsed by $1 combo plates, fried rice and a nice side of... More >>
Crepes Cest Bon!
Dreaming of Paris in America
, August 14, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsMy fellow study-abroaders and I arrived in Paris in 1998 sleep-deprived, famished and smelly. We staggered toward a little... More >>
Goat Spine And More
Enjoy Tijuanas Anarch at El Rincon Del Oso
, August 07, 2003
Photo by Gustavo ArellanoTo reach El Rincón del Oso, get on the I-5 south and drive—past San Clemente, past Camp Pendleton and San Onofre, past... More >>
Back in the Grill Again
Ignore the kitsch and eat at Pinnacle Peak
, July 31, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoWatched intently by a papier-mâché steer standing atop the roof of Pinnacle Peak, the faithful trudge in from various points... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Four restaurants for rice
, July 17, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulLike soccer, the metric system and goodwill toward man, rice is a staple nearly everywhere but the United States.... More >>
So Good, Youll Wish You Were Sick
Hoag Hospital food is Newport Beach class at cafeteria prices
, July 17, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThey certainly looked like doctors, though they were dressed like you or me. They didn't have any surgical tools or... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five carne asada carnicerias
, July 10, 2003
Non-Mexicans and pocho Mexicans alike plead cultural ignorance as the reason for not preparing carne asada every weekend as they should. Mierda.... More >>
En Mi Viejo Senor Big Ed
Recreating Puerto Rico in Cypress
, July 10, 2003
The autographed pictures dotting Señor Big Ed's kitchen wall qualify the Cypress eatery as a Puerto Rican Hall of Fame. Anaheim Angels catcher... More >>
En Mi Viejo Senor Big Ed
Recreating Puerto Rico in Cypress
, July 10, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe autographed pictures dotting Señor Big Ed's kitchen wall qualify the Cypress eatery as a Puerto Rican Hall of Fame.... More >>
Diarmuid and Fergals Place
Not just another pub
, July 03, 2003
My mother, ever the inquisitive student of world culture, once shamed me by asking an Irish friend how, exactly, it was possible there were... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five summer school spots
, July 03, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThe college graduation season concluded about two weeks ago only to make way for summer school, that pedagogic playground... More >>
Meal of the Marauders
Eating the present past at Genghis Khan
, June 26, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsA bronze relief hanging from a wall in Genghis Khan restaurant in Fullerton depicts a smiling family outside a ger, the... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five Complimentary Condiments
, June 26, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThe meal is grand, delicious . . . but something's missing, that certain yo no sé quéthat catapults a dish toward the... More >>
Checklist Please
Five frozen fancies
, June 19, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulWhether eaten from a tub or a crunchy cone, bought at the grocery store or made at home, ice cream remains humankind's... More >>
Night of the Living Burrito
Actress Judith ODea eats skin, shellfish
, June 19, 2003
Photo by Ward BoultIn 1967, industrial commercials filmmaker George A. Romero and his Latent Image production company decided to try their hand... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five Duck Dinners
, June 05, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulFace it, New Jersey Devils devotees: the only ducks your ice idols will be carving up during this Stanley Cup final are... More >>
Sarmale Sentiments
Reliving Love, Cabbage Rolls at Dunarea Restaurant
, June 05, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoHer name I can't remember, but those eyes and cabbage rolls remain. She was Romanian, this mademoiselle, a classmate of mine at... More >>
Vacuuming in the Nude!
Candy sets the summer on fire
, May 29, 2003
Photo by Jill MoranCandy Woodward started surfing when she was 12. It was the late '60s, and girls weren't even allowed to be junior lifeguards,... More >>
Checklist, Please?
Five Sublime patios
, May 29, 2003
Patio dining is especially apt during the summer, when kind weather allows diners the opportunity to chow down alfresco. The following... More >>
Checklist, Please?
Five sublime patios
, May 29, 2003
Patio dining is especially apt during the summer, when kind weather allows diners the opportunity to chow down alfresco. The following... More >>
Loaves of Love
Five Cultures, Five Sandwiches
, May 22, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulLegend has it that John Montague, fourth Earl of Sandwich (1718-92), invented the eponymous meal after refusing to leave a... More >>
Tamale Time!
Tamales, topos and pan dulce at Panaderia y Antojitos Guatemala
, May 22, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoEvery Mesoamerican nation produces tamales, but those from Guatemala are the grandest. The country's take on this primordial... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

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Sahuayo Primo Offers Pig By the Pound

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Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

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Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

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Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi

Do you turn up your nose at those sushi bar Know-Nothings who would make a thick, creamy sludge out of their soy sauce and wasabi? Do you know what brand… More >>

Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

Don't mind the sign near the entrance of Ellie's Table At North Beach that says, "Line Starts Here." Actually, scratch that: If there is a line, follow it. But in… More >>