Restaurant Reviews

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Where Good Cuisine Goes to Pasture
Commemorating the ancien regime at La Brasserie
, April 15, 2004
Photo by Tenaya HillsLa Brasserie in Orange serves more than mere pricey, divine dishes: it's also a living museum. The 27-year-old eatery... More >>
Solomon Duenas Never Sleeps
And lovers of Jewish pastries are for the better
, April 08, 2004
Photo by Joy WebberAt 3 a.m., when most Orange Countians are halfway through their slumber, Solomon Dueñas leaves Aliso Viejo and begins the... More >>
Smash the Jock-ocracy!
Celebrating a Friends Firing at Evas Caribbean Kitchen
, April 01, 2004
If you're still not convinced that the Santa Ana Unified School District Board of Trustees is the administrative equivalent of a million monkeys... More >>
Piggie Porn
Fetishizing hog at Seoul Soondae
, March 25, 2004
Perhaps it's appropriate that Seoul Soondae operates next to a Korean adult-video store in Garden Grove's Little Seoul district. It's not just... More >>
Toobers Chips, Dips and Cheese Steak
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
, March 25, 2004
California is the land that made fusion a phenomenon, the state that blessed this world with the pastrami burrito, orange-chicken pizza and... More >>
Lucille in the Sky with Ribs
The carnal carnival at Breas sole redeeming factor
, March 18, 2004
Photo by Tenaya HillsLet's make fun of Brea. A city with an antiseptic downtown ruled by packs of Von Dutch-garbed teenyboppers. The Paris of... More >>
Naan & Kabob
, March 18, 2004
Photo by Joy WeberNaan & Kabob should be renamed Rice & Kabob, since the Tustin eatery prepares the latter platter 36 different ways. Rice with... More >>
Turtle Tryst
Breaking international law via soup at Mariscos La Sirena
, March 11, 2004
Two years ago, I wrote an essay detailing my futile search for caldo de caguama—sea-turtle soup. The Mexican delicacy was impossible to find for... More >>
Robot-Sex Fun
, March 11, 2004
Photo by Joy WeberTyping "Graffitea" on Google summons up the confessions of at least seven Orange County blogs raving about the Costa Mesa boba... More >>
Merhaba Restaurant
, March 04, 2004
Photo by Lisa HartIt doesn't matter whether you're white, Latino, Asian or even black: when you enter Merhaba Restaurant in Anaheim, all... More >>
Parlez-Vous Dien Bien Phu?
A tour of Orange Countys French-Vietnamese restaurants
, February 26, 2004
Photo by Tenaya HillsHoly Stockholm Syndrome! Many Vietnamese-Americans seem to view the 100-year French rule of their mother country with... More >>
Sweet Jills
, February 26, 2004
Photo by Matt OttoSweet Jill's is a motherly Seal Beach bakery on the city's Main Street strip, a quality not wholly explained by its female... More >>
Sexing Up Their Zaggat
Chanteclair gets new facade, keep their great food
, February 19, 2004
Photo by Jessica Calkins There's something vaguely bovine or maybe equine about the stampede of humanity that begins around 10 every night at... More >>
Bright Lights, Big Bigots
Happy Veggie Combats Boorish Clientele with Vegan Love
, February 12, 2004
Photo by Matt OttoA band of pseudo-epicures hungrily approaches the bright lights of Happy Veggie Vegetarian Restaurant, happy but for the... More >>
Its Their First Time
Introducing the inexperienced to the decadence of Le Diplomat
, February 05, 2004
Photo by Joy WeberAh, virgins. Four in one evening. Three of them sisters. The dream that runs in full color in every perv's head arose for me... More >>
Londondale Fish and Chips
, February 05, 2004
Photo by Tenaya HillsIt's a mannerly Chinese family, not a crusty New England clan or surly brood of Brits, who runs this long-standing Anaheim... More >>
Super Bowled-Over
A county buffalo wings primer
, January 29, 2004
Photo by OCW staffWhile attending college in snowy South Bend, Indiana, my friends and I had a standing Tuesday-night date at Buffalo Wild Wings... More >>
Assal Pastry
, January 29, 2004
Photo by Jessica CalkinsIn a race toward cultural indifference, rice pudding and rhubarb pie are dead even, unless your rice pudding is sholeh... More >>
M & Mmmmmm
Go for the soul food, stay for the soul food
, January 22, 2004
Photo by Joy WeberHaving drained our usual 25 cups of coffee one recent chilly day, the wife and I needed protein to counterbalance the caffeine.... More >>
Tikal Tienda y Restaurante
, January 22, 2004
Photo by Matt OttoAsk to dine in at Tikal Tienda in Santa Ana, and the matronly Mayan owner shepherds you past shelves of Guatemalan produce... More >>
Shes a Brick . . . Wall
Revisiting a Friendship at LHirondelle
, January 08, 2004
Photo by Tenaya HillsOf all the women who have crossed my life as a pseudo-Casanova, Araceli was the most enticing. We never experienced any... More >>
Nikos Cafe & Restaurant
, January 08, 2004
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThey don't make places like Niko's Café & Restaurant anymore, and maybe that's a good thing. The Fullerton restaurant's... More >>
Habanero Xanadu
Red Rock Chilis Scorched Throat Policy
, December 25, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoChuck wagon cooks accompanying cowboys on long cattle drives invented chili. Or maybe it was prisoners trying to disguise the... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Banh Mi Cho Cu
, December 25, 2003
Photo by Joy WeberThe Bánh Mì Cho Cu experience—from entering to ordering to banging out the door—lasts about three minutes even during the most... More >>
The Bemusement Stops Here
Scallops, Meatloaf and More at the Green Parrot Cafe
, December 18, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsA friend took me to dinner last week. It was a fancy dinner at one of the county's fancier restaurants, but I was early and... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

If I told you that you can have a burger and beer at Eureka! (their exclamation point, not mine), the new restaurant in Huntington Beach's Bella Terra, that'd be enough,… More >>

Sahuayo Primo Offers Pig By the Pound

They sit there at Sahuayo Primo in SanTana all the time: golden sheets or strips of chicharrones, fried morning, noon and night, slowly baking under hot lamps. The stacks of… More >>

Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

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Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

California is America's burrito empire, from the Mission cylindrical god of San Francisco to San Diego's California burrito to the Inland Empire's garbage burrito, which I described to a friend… More >>

Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi

Do you turn up your nose at those sushi bar Know-Nothings who would make a thick, creamy sludge out of their soy sauce and wasabi? Do you know what brand… More >>

Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

Don't mind the sign near the entrance of Ellie's Table At North Beach that says, "Line Starts Here." Actually, scratch that: If there is a line, follow it. But in… More >>

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