Restaurant Reviews

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Checklist, Please?
Five Sublime patios
, May 29, 2003
Patio dining is especially apt during the summer, when kind weather allows diners the opportunity to chow down alfresco. The following... More >>
Checklist, Please?
Five sublime patios
, May 29, 2003
Patio dining is especially apt during the summer, when kind weather allows diners the opportunity to chow down alfresco. The following... More >>
Loaves of Love
Five Cultures, Five Sandwiches
, May 22, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulLegend has it that John Montague, fourth Earl of Sandwich (1718-92), invented the eponymous meal after refusing to leave a... More >>
Tamale Time!
Tamales, topos and pan dulce at Panaderia y Antojitos Guatemala
, May 22, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoEvery Mesoamerican nation produces tamales, but those from Guatemala are the grandest. The country's take on this primordial... More >>
Checklist, Please!
Five horchata heavens
, May 15, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulHorchata is the optimal summer drink: deceptively sweet and served colder than a Newport Beach socialite's blood.... More >>
It Aint Easy Being Cheesy
Takin a dip with Berlin Jim at the Melting Pot
, May 15, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe last time I had hard cheese and stale bread, I threw them in the damn trash. What was I thinking? I should've... More >>
Dave doesn't eat here!
Five HB Italian restaurants not affiliated with the city's execrable ex-mayor
, May 15, 2003
Illustration by Bob Aul I don't know about you, but I prefer to avoid restaurants run by convicted felons, which means I won't ever patronize... More >>
Palo Fields
The majestic meals of Caspian Restaurant
, May 15, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsThe two marble sphinxes guarding the entrance of Caspian Restaurant are probably the least opulent features of this... More >>
Cinco de Yummo
Five Mexican Mexican restaurants to fiesta at during Cinco de Mayo
, May 08, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulMexicans in Mexico don't celebrate Cinco de Mayo, so if you're going to observe this sham holiday, please do it right. For... More >>
Domo Arigato, Mr. Natto
Learning to love Japans stinky weapon of culinary destruction
, May 08, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsNever a day passes that this portly penman doesn't give thanks to Zeus for granting me the good fortune to marry my... More >>
Empire Eats
Five restaurants to chew on our last imperial century
, May 01, 2003
Quiz: What American president with visions of a new world order said, "I ask the Congress to authorize and empower the President to take measures... More >>
Veggie in the Box
Esthers fast food for granola eaters
, May 01, 2003
Photo by Tenaya HillsIt's about 9:45 on a muggy Monday morning when a chubby guy pulls up a stool inside Esther's Place and notices that no one... More >>
Calgon, Take Me Away!
Five escapist eateries to make you forget our screwed-up world
, April 24, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulWar. The SARS virus. Bush's inevitable re-election. Cher's new album. Why, it's not even worth picking up the dailies... More >>
Boar War
Blubber-bound blowhard battles Tony Bourdain for the favor of his beloved at Yi Dynasty
, April 24, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsI'm distressed to admit it, dear readers, but it has come to my attention that this jelly-bellied journalist is... More >>
Cookie Toss
Five bakeries where county cookie monsters can munch out
, April 17, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThose wacky Dutch get credit for the word cookie, adapted from koekje, or "little cake," though it was probably the... More >>
Give the Satyr a Brew
Scouting Santa Ana for superior lunches
, April 17, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsRickety lunch trucks begin traversing the county around midmorning, hopping from worksite to worksite, seeking famished... More >>
Ground-Zero Grub
Drive-by dining when North Korea drops the big one
, April 10, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulRemember North Korea? The Hermit Kingdom ruled by a nutcase with a bad fro, a massive porno collection and a penchant for... More >>
Fromage Fanatic
A turophiles tale of cheese hunting in the county
, April 10, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulI don't know what came over me the other evening. I was at home, curled up with pipe in hand and slippers on feet,... More >>
Temple of Tofu
Luck for everyone at Van Hanh Vietnamese Restaurant
, April 10, 2003
Photo by Jessica CalkinsA lucky-cat shrine greets all who enter Van Hanh Vegetarian Restaurant, a majestic temple of tofu, dramatic lighting and... More >>
Fire In the Hole!
A nickel-bag of platters to paint your uvula red
, April 03, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulThere's nothing quite like the rush of eating something so spicy-hot that it feels like the band Great White performed on... More >>
Chewing the Chatpatas
From Bollywood to La Palma with Haldirams Indian Munchies
, April 03, 2003
Supriya Bharadwaj, distribution manager for the La Palma offices of Indian snack food maestros Haldiram's, recently sent me some Bollywood films... More >>
Dick's Picks
Five spots to chow down at after visiting the Nixon Library
, April 03, 2003
Illustration by Bob AulSo you finally made it to the Nixon Library in Yorba Linda, and the day has been chock-full of Dick! You visited the plot... More >>
Kiss My Cassoulet!
Flabby Francophile defends Gauls, dines at Bistro le Crillon
, April 03, 2003
Photo by Matt OttoNothing has made me more livid of late than the anti-Gallic fervor abroad in the land caused by the Franco-American rift over... More >>
Ask the Soup Nazi
Five joints to get your slurp on
, March 27, 2003
Illustration by Bob Aul Away with anemic consommés and bland, canned broths. Give us instead the world in a bowl, a symphony for the senses, a... More >>
Le Petit Chef
Fat Bastard and Little Big Man do lunch at Foscari
, March 27, 2003
Photo by Jeanne RiceTable for two at Foscari's, Anaheim Hills. In the chair facing the kitchen, Michael Lee Gogin, a.k.a. "Little Big Man."... More >>
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From the Print Edition

At Inka Mama's, Mami Knows Best At Inka Mama's, Mami Knows Best

There used to be a different Peruvian restaurant at the very spot Inka Mama's has recently claimed as its fourth Orange County location. By all accounts, it did a very… More >>

Pho Quyen: Absolutely Sweet Little Saigon

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For a Hot Time In Old Huntington, Go to the Black Trumpet Bistro For a Hot Time In Old Huntington, Go to the Black Trumpet Bistro

The eateries you'll see on the 5-mile stretch of Beach Boulevard as it extends from the 405 down to Pacific Coast Highway can have the randomness of what sticks on… More >>

Chixy Natural: Twirl-a-Bird

"Hey, man, you still going to use that?" the surfer-ish type guy asked as I scarfed down my meal at Chixy Natural. Oh, my lack of manners! This Costa Mesa… More >>

Urban Seoul's Bulgogi Nation Urban Seoul's Bulgogi Nation

It's impossible to talk about Urban Seoul without mentioning Roy Choi, the creator of Kogi, the pioneer of luxe loncheras, America's unofficial ambassador to everything hipster ethnic, last seen traipsing… More >>

Delicias Peruanas' Great Chicken Salad?

You know what is the most overlooked city in Orange County? Lake Forest. It's a seeming no-man's-land between North and South County, a place where the politics are dirty, the… More >>

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