Restaurant Reviews

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New Heaven in Old World
Chef Paolo Pestarino gets his own place
, July 26, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI don't remember a lot of my friends' and relatives' birthdays, but I can tell you when Newport Beach's Issay restaurant... More >>
Hapi Accident
Each meal at Hapi Sushi is a delightful exploration of the unknown
, July 19, 2001
Photo by Joy BastMy education in sushi came at knifepoint. At Hapi Sushi, I watched in astonishment as an elderly Asian man, presumably Japanese,... More >>
Hookah Party!
Smoky flavors at Open Sesame
, July 12, 2001
Photos by Joy BastIn the white-bread Long Beach section of Belmont Shores, four Middle Eastern men toke on a hookah outside a restaurant by a... More >>
Civil Service
One vote for Skosh Monahan
, June 28, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceDo you have any idea if your local representatives really serve you? You probably don't go to city council meetings, and for... More >>
Worth A Cluck
Surf Citys sublime Chicken Co.
, June 07, 2001
If the phrase weren't trademarked, we'd tell you that at Huntington Beach's Chicken Co., they do chicken right. Instead, we'll tell you that they... More >>
Insane In the Membrane
How to cook Santa Monica Seafoods yummy shellfish
, May 31, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceSometime after my then-future wife moved to California from Massachusetts, we stopped by Albertsons to pick up some steamers,... More >>
Thyme and Space
Anastasia is many places in one
, May 10, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceOn one recent post card-perfect Southern California day—belly agrowl, brain in desperate need of coffee, my biggest dilemma... More >>
Salvadoran Slugfest
Food as a tool of peace
, May 03, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldI have a Salvadoran friend (I'll call him "Sal") who gets pissed-off whenever someone calls him a Mexican. After he's finished... More >>
Mexico, Mexico-Style
Of mariachis, tequila and mole
, April 26, 2001
Photo by Jeanne RiceA true Mexican restaurant is named after an unpronounceable Mexican town. Its tequila is so sweet that you will drink the... More >>
Andean Heater
Inka Grill keeps things spicy, Peruvian-style
, March 29, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldWe survived the Gringo Killer—twice. When the Inka Grill in Costa Mesa—a warm little restaurant with a rag-painted,... More >>
Fakin Bacon!
At Au Lac, even the strictest vegans can make pigs of themselves
, March 15, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldIt's lonely at the top of the food chain if you're a vegan—or so I would assume. Some of my best friends are among the... More >>
Here is Cod's Plenty
The great fish and chips search
, March 15, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldThe first thing I noticed about my take-out box o' fish and chips from Silky Sullivan's was that instead of a lemon wedge,... More >>
Southeast Asia With a Car Wash
Eat, clean and see merry
, February 08, 2001
Photo by Jack GouldIt seems like a dish from a bad Vincent Price movie: red curry with coconut milk. Does this meal, combining the ephemeral... More >>
Dave Garofalo Eats Here!
But, it turns out, not very often
, January 18, 2001
Don't look for checkered tablecloths, fake grape arbors dangling from doorways, or wicker-bottomed bottles of chianti. Lucci's Deli is more... More >>
True Believers
Our encounter with authentic Sicilian
, January 11, 2001
Photo by Keith MayHalf-Italian, I've eaten at my fair share of Italian restaurants, including the Olive Garden (Il Ristorante Denny's), and there... More >>
Every Sandwich an Adventure!
A couple of hero-crazy kids try living the dream
, December 28, 2000
Photo by Jeanne RiceA quick look around Super Hero's reveals it's a very new restaurant: the paint's still shiny, the counters are absolutely... More >>
Valhalla on Earth
Smorgasbord the way Thor intended
, December 14, 2000
Photo by Keith MayIn a culinary ranking of nations, Sweden would fall somewhere between exquisite French delicacies and bland English slop. Only... More >>
Cant Beat Their Meat
Its all about steak at Stubriks
, November 23, 2000
Photo by Joy BastGetting a decent steak in Orange County is a real grind. Most steakhouses in the upper bubbles of OC consist of themed joints... More >>
Cant Beat Their Meat
Its all about steak at Stubriks
, November 23, 2000
Getting a decent steak in Orange County is a real grind. Most steakhouses in the upper bubbles of OC consist of themed joints that offer little... More >>
Cant Beat Their Meat
Its all about steak at Stubriks
, November 23, 2000
Photo by Joy BastGetting a decent steak in Orange County is a real grind. Most steakhouses in the upper bubbles of OC consist of themed joints... More >>
Indian Adventure
Why Indian beer comes in big bottles
, November 16, 2000
Photo by Joy BastImagine yourself in old Bombay. Now eliminate the incessant heat, the millions of flies and the whining beggars. What's left?... More >>
Spaghetti Postmodern
If Ed Wood were from Italy, he mightve owned Angelos and Vincis
, November 02, 2000
Photo by Keith May"Let me give you a little ambiance," our waiter said, reaching over to light a tiny tabletop candle. "It'll make all the... More >>
I Dined It My Way
Eat, drink and be Frankie!
, October 19, 2000
BY OLD BLUE EYESThere are places in Orange County that look Frank, sound Frank and are even named after Frank. Hell, if I had known so many... More >>
Yes, Mother
Mother India insists you eat seconds
, October 12, 2000
Photo by Joy BastA couple of years ago, when I worked down the street, I must have eaten lunch three days a week at Mother India... More >>
The Doctor is in Pescadou
French dining with Art Davis
, October 05, 2000
Photo by Keith MayJazz musicians know food. They can tell you where to get the best grub in cities all around the world and will rave about... More >>
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From the Print Edition

The Hidden Dinner Eat-Easys The Hidden Dinner Eat-Easys
By MICHAEL CHIN

Hidden Dinner is perhaps best defined by its name: It's hidden, and it's a dinner. There is no set location or menu. Find a password that allows you to access… More >>

Brasserie Pascal Bids a Foie Farewell Brasserie Pascal Bids a Foie Farewell
By EDWIN GOEI

I had my first real piece of foie gras as everyone usually does: at a French restaurant, seared and served with fruit to cut through the inherent richness. In celebration… More >>

Ochoa's Chorizo With Amnesty Ochoa's Chorizo With Amnesty
By GUSTAVO ARELLANO

Every couple of weeks, I get an urge to try the best damn tamales in Southern California, moist, fluffy masa bricks wrapped in banana leaves, rubbed with mole negro and… More >>

Pho Bo Vang, Ann's Pho & Teriyaki and Maison de Pho and the Closing of the Pho Frontier Pho Bo Vang, Ann's Pho & Teriyaki and Maison de Pho and the Closing of the Pho Frontier
By EDWIN GOEI

If Little Saigon is to Vietnamese restaurants as LA's seminal Chinatown is to Chinese food, then Lake Forest might be OC's San Gabriel Valley. For a bedroom community with a… More >>

Rubalcava's and the Rise of Primo-Mex
By GUSTAVO ARELLANO

An interesting trend is rising in Orange County: the emergence of second-generation Mexican food entrepreneurs continuing their family tradition, but tweaking the model to stay relevant. At the Northgate Supermarket… More >>

Anepalco's Cafe Has Le Mexique Anepalco's Cafe Has Le Mexique
By EDWIN GOEI

Like Break of Dawn's Dee Nguyen and the Playground's Jason Quinn, Danny Godinez cut his teeth and proved his chops during stints at the most expensive and uppity restaurants in… More >>

Bahay Kawayan Is Long in the Plate
By GUSTAVO ARELLANO

I literally ran into Bahay Kawayan, starving after a day driving across Southern California, needing a starch-filled pick-me-up before I could take on the night. One elderly lady grunted her… More >>

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