Restaurant Reviews

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This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Kebab Crimes
, January 12, 2006
Behold the following scene, a day after Christmas, in Laguna Niguel: a muscular white male arguing with a Latina cook over a muffed order of... More >>
Steaming Art Steaming Art
Tea, Korea-style, at 419 Cafe Veronese
, January 05, 2006
In the United States, teahouses are the domain of the doilies. But in South Korea, the tabang (tea room) is a combination pub/coffeehouse where... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Burger Beach
, January 05, 2006
Even if you've never eaten at Husky Boy, you know this restaurant. It's the burger stand on the north side of Laguna Beach—the one on the inland... More >>
Oh, Capricious Gut! Oh, Capricious Gut!
The Ritz-Carltons new Restaurant 162
, December 22, 2005
The best meal I ever ate was at the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel's late, great Dining Room: a seven-course extravaganza with a classy broad,... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Porky Brazil
, December 22, 2005
Orange County doesn't lack for stews—we can choose from fierce Korean soon tofus, Mexican birrias, Pakistani haleem, gumbos and numerous... More >>
Steak Out!
Meating the masses at Orange County’s outsider steak chains
, December 15, 2005
Though the last remaining herd of cows in Orange County may have stampeded toward the greener pastures of Scottsdale, we remain steak country.... More >>
Multiculti Hawaii
The Loft Hawaiian Grill
, December 15, 2005
The Loft Hawaiian Grill, a bright-yellow jewel in the midst of Cypress' international-business corridor, is the only local Hawaiian restaurant... More >>
Deep Dish Deliverance
Solving the horror of the pizza lunch with Tony’s Little Italy
, December 08, 2005
When you work in an office, you learnto fear the pizza lunch: that afternoon when the boss suddenly becomes generous and treats his workers to... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
24-Hour Pho
, December 08, 2005
Little Saigon—shit, I'm still in Little Saigon. It's 3 a.m., driving back home after a Friday evening with a lady friend. Chilly winds howl... More >>
the Arizonans Are Coming!
Or: How I learned to stop worrying and love Arizonans at Mastro’s Ocean Club
, December 01, 2005
The Phoenix-based New Times chainof alt. weeklies is bidding to buy the Weekly’s parent company and create the largest free-weekly company in the... More >>
Beach Bum Gourmand
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
, December 01, 2005
There are few local restaurants that seem more desolate than the RIVER’S END CAFE, a dull, sandy-brown structure at the westernmost edge of the... More >>
Nirvana, Corn Chip-style
Solving the origin myth of Laguna Beach’s Have’A Chips
, November 24, 2005
A bag of Have’A Corn Chips hasnothingto hide. The translucent bag lets you see the tantalizing, soy-stained product within. Its packaging states,... More >>
Fine Chicken
THIS HOLE-IN-THE-WALL LIFE
, November 24, 2005
There’s a reason Anaheim Mayor Curt Pringle is so focused on redeveloping the region around Anaheim Stadium rather than the city’s historical... More >>
Good Food, No Hit: No Problem
Tim DeCinces redeems his baseball career at Beach Pit BBQ
, November 17, 2005
Tim DeCinces didn't amount to much as a baseball player. The Baltimore Orioles chose the son of former California Angels third baseman Doug... More >>
Salamat Market and Deli
, November 17, 2005
For more than a decade, Salamat Market and Deli in Orange offered sandwiches, stews and kebabs—but that's all about to change. Not that there's... More >>
Poetic Toro
The tasting menu at Sushi Shibucho: A review in haiku
, November 10, 2005
Say "Omakase." Utter this and nothing else. Shibutani nods. No seats at the bar? Regular tables are fine. His wife serves us here. Her smile... More >>
Calling All Billy Kids!
Fine dining arrives in Stanton thanks to Park Ave.
, November 03, 2005
Why would a Beverly Hills celebrity chef—named one of the country's Top 12 two years ago by the Fine Dining Awards—leave it all for Stanton?... More >>
Mahina Hawaiian BBQ
, November 03, 2005
Spam musubi—a bastardized form of sushi consisting of seaweed paper, a block of sour sushi rice and a juicy Spam slice doused with barbecue... More >>
'Wooooooooooow!'
The soggy/succulent Italian beef and Chicago hot dogs of Portillo's arrive in Buena Park
, October 27, 2005
Photo by Amy TheiligThe fat man was quiet, overtaken by the kind of hush that paralyzes humans when they step inside the Sistine Chapel or view... More >>
The Gabacho Blues
Mozambique in Laguna Beach is great once you pass the birds
, October 13, 2005
Photo by Tenaya HillsPoor parrots. They just sit there in big cages near the entrance of Mozambique, the new Laguna Beach restaurant that looks... More >>
Avanti Cafe
, October 13, 2005
Costa Mesa remains the Berkeley of the local dining scene. Standbys such as the Gypsy Den, Taco Mesa and Native Foods produce some of the... More >>
Fast, Hot, Cheap, Delicious
A & J Restaurant brings northern Chinese food to Irvinelike salted soymilk!
, October 06, 2005
Photo by Matt OttoSalted soymilk isn't the most attractive breakfast. Neither solid nor liquid, it's a clumpy porridge of oatmeal and herbs. The... More >>
Swift Souffle Serenade
Non-hurried, elegant dining at Savoies Fare
, October 06, 2005
Photo by Tenaya HillsTime was running short. My dining partner had a concert to attend; a night of romance awaited me. We had finished our... More >>
Caraz Dulzura
, October 06, 2005
In Peru, the city of Caraz Dulzura occupies a mountainous region so idyllic some call it the Switzerland of the Andes. In Anaheim, Caraz Dulzura... More >>
Great Food Moments in Weekly History
, September 22, 2005
Photo by Tenaya HillsThere are at least three kinds of culinary adventures: eating food that's bad—terrifyingly, esophageally wounding (in this... More >>
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From the Print Edition

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It was Sunday night at Peking Dragon Restaurant in Dana Point, one of only three Chinese eateries in the seaside city, and every Naugahyde booth was taken. You had to… More >>

Papa's Fish & Soul Food Is Super!

"That sauce bit you in the end, right?" the owner of Papa's Fish & Soul Food in Anaheim cracked from across the dining room, and I had to nod yes.… More >>

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