Restaurant Reviews

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This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life

Oh Yes, Oh Yes

, March 30, 2006
I remember shrugging when the Hawaiian restaurant ONO ONO opened about three years ago in Tustin. The food was good but unmemorable, mostly... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
To Go
, March 23, 2006
PETITE CAFE is so new that its marquee is a plastic banner. It's so new that a public notice for a liquor license competes for window space with... More >>
He Fights for Your Right to Pate He Fights for Your Right to Pate
Michael Mina leads St. Regis through the resort wars with Stonehill Tavern
, March 16, 2006
There's a war raging along Orange County's southern coast, and it's delicious. For the past couple of years, the Montage in Laguna Beach, the... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Mondu Madness
, March 16, 2006
I occasionally receive complaints from readers upset that the restaurants I recommend are inaccessible: gruff, English-free holes in the wall.... More >>
A Gut Feeling A Gut Feeling
Menudo will cure your hangover but can do so much more
, March 09, 2006
When we first discussed our drinking issue, everyone looked toward me with the word “menudo.” I agreed to extol its hangover-curing virtues—and... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life

The Glory of It Thali

, March 09, 2006
The subcontinental meal known as a thali is the original Hungry-Man Meal: a metal tray that houses thimbles, cups and bowls heaped with... More >>
Some Like It Raw Some Like It Raw
Dan Lauriano repeats his North County success with Riptide
, March 02, 2006
After four years of seeing his Chomp Rockin' Sushi and Teppan Grills draw massive crowds to downtown Fullerton, Dan Lauriano wondered: Could he... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Sumptuous Syncretism
, March 02, 2006
Why is there a historic division between Mexicans and Salvadorans? I can't differentiate between the two cultures as I drive through MacArthur... More >>
Moo Shoo Muslim Moo Shoo Muslim
Sister Jamillah returns with Mas Islamic Chinese Restaurant
, February 23, 2006
So you're angry about those Mohammed cartoons—angry at newspapers for insulting the Prophet, pissed off at Muslims for not taking blasphemy in... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Golden Comfort
, February 23, 2006
A chicken pot pie, like a Toyota Camry, isn't the flashiest or most enthralling thing you can buy, but its greatness is undeniable and unveils... More >>
Meat Juices Down Your Throat! Meat Juices Down Your Throat!
Savannah Steak and Chop House sizzles
, February 16, 2006
For the ideal mix of comfort and innovation, few can match the creations of David Wilhelm, the man behind such Orange County buzz bistros as... More >>
This Week in Great Scot Whisky This Week in Great Scot Whisky
Whisky Tasting on the Queen Mary
, February 16, 2006
Its name stems from Irish/Gaelic for "water of life," but whisky is actually the devil's own special brew. Distilled from grain and left to age... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Sambousek Me!
, February 16, 2006
In the wide world of the small, stuffed snacks known as turnovers—a planet that includes the Mexican empanada, Bolivian salteņa, Cornish pasty and I... More >>
Stately Soup Stately Soup
High-end pho reaches Little Saigon at Quan Hop
, February 09, 2006
Pho is not cuisine with a capital C. Pho remembers when you fell on your ass in a puddle in the third grade and went crying like a sissy to your... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
They Could Be Gyros
, February 09, 2006
It's a mighty gyro they spin at GYRO KING: lamb and beef compressed into a hexagonal slab, twirled slowly on a spit so the meats meld into one... More >>
The Return of the Native The Return of the Native
Scampi maestro Massimo Navarretta returns with Onotria
, February 02, 2006
Restaurateurs are a notoriously fickle bunch, and 2005 saw some of Orange County's most celebrated—the Goodells, Takashi Abe, Brad Toles of... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Paxtrami Americana
, February 02, 2006
The jumbo Reuben at TOMMY PASTRAMI represents everything glorious and terrifying about America. This is a mighty tower of flesh: fold upon fold... More >>
!Ay, Mi Estomago! !Ay, Mi Estomago!
Orange Countys 61 best Latino restaurantes
, January 26, 2006
1. If you're a regular of Detroit Bar in Costa Mesa, there's a chance you've driven by Taquería el Granjenal. Primary, of course, are the tacos:... More >>
Latinos We Like Latinos We Like
And the Food They Love
, January 26, 2006
  NICK GARFIAS, SENIOR DESIGNER, MERCEDES-BENZ Nick Garfias is a senior designer at Mercedes-Benz Advanced Design lab in Irvine and... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life

369 SHANGHAI:

1, 2, 3 Eat

, January 19, 2006
Don't eat alone at 369 SHANGHAI, where takeout cartons easily yield three lunches and a breakfast, and the dine-in meals are clearly for... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Kebab Crimes
, January 12, 2006
Behold the following scene, a day after Christmas, in Laguna Niguel: a muscular white male arguing with a Latina cook over a muffed order of... More >>
Steaming Art Steaming Art
Tea, Korea-style, at 419 Cafe Veronese
, January 05, 2006
In the United States, teahouses are the domain of the doilies. But in South Korea, the tabang (tea room) is a combination pub/coffeehouse where... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Burger Beach
, January 05, 2006
Even if you've never eaten at Husky Boy, you know this restaurant. It's the burger stand on the north side of Laguna Beach—the one on the inland... More >>
Oh, Capricious Gut! Oh, Capricious Gut!
The Ritz-Carltons new Restaurant 162
, December 22, 2005
The best meal I ever ate was at the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel's late, great Dining Room: a seven-course extravaganza with a classy broad,... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Porky Brazil
, December 22, 2005
Orange County doesn't lack for stews—we can choose from fierce Korean soon tofus, Mexican birrias, Pakistani haleem, gumbos and numerous... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Bistrot Massilia: Butter Up! Bistrot Massilia: Butter Up!

You realize the futility of having a reservation for Bistrot Massilia on the Thursday night before Mother's Day weekend when you get there. There's not a soul except for the… More >>

How Undercover Animal Rights Activists are Winning the Ag-Gag War How Undercover Animal Rights Activists are Winning the Ag-Gag War

Cody Carlson had no way of preparing for this moment. He was a Manhattan kid, days removed from working as an analyst for a business-intelligence firm, where he scrutinized corporations… More >>

Little Sparrow: An Auspicious Egg

Some food critics are of the opinion that you can't judge a restaurant in its opening weeks, that you need to give them time to work out any kinks. Some… More >>

At Inka Mama's, Mami Knows Best At Inka Mama's, Mami Knows Best

There used to be a different Peruvian restaurant at the very spot Inka Mama's has recently claimed as its fourth Orange County location. By all accounts, it did a very… More >>

Pho Quyen: Absolutely Sweet Little Saigon

We're now reaching a point in Little Saigon's history where the old-school places are slowly but surely changing. Some are closing shop; others are moving to richer environs in South… More >>

For a Hot Time In Old Huntington, Go to the Black Trumpet Bistro For a Hot Time In Old Huntington, Go to the Black Trumpet Bistro

The eateries you'll see on the 5-mile stretch of Beach Boulevard as it extends from the 405 down to Pacific Coast Highway can have the randomness of what sticks on… More >>

Chixy Natural: Twirl-a-Bird

"Hey, man, you still going to use that?" the surfer-ish type guy asked as I scarfed down my meal at Chixy Natural. Oh, my lack of manners! This Costa Mesa… More >>

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