Restaurant Reviews

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This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Spoonfuls of Summery Hooray: Patbingsu at A.R. Supermarket
, June 07, 2007
Weird, this Korean delight called patbingsu, which will cool your summer like little else. It's usually served in Styrofoam cups, so the first... More >>
Sushi Revolution! Sushi Revolution!
The chefs at Kaisen are masters of all they convey
, May 31, 2007
Upon eating his first Kumamoto oyster, a friend of mine proclaimed, "This tastes like a mouthful of ocean." I nodded in agreement as I slurped my... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Italian-American Serenata: Main Street Pizza Pasta
, May 31, 2007
You want fresh when it comes to Italian food—pastas recently bent or rolled into shape, sauces served steaming and spilled onto meatballs that... More >>
Tuck  and Roll Tuck and Roll
Courting Brodard Chateaus spring rolls
, May 24, 2007
No secret in Little Saigon is more closely guarded than the recipe for Brodard's spring-roll sauce. Ask what's in it, and you will be met with an... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Mystery Meals On Main: El Pupusodromo
, May 24, 2007
So a Mexican and a Guatemalan walk into this Salvadoran restaurant . . . No, I'm not joking! There we were: Me, a Mexican, eating lunch with a... More >>
Sapphire Shines Sapphire Shines
This eclectic Laguna Beach eatery is a real gem
, May 17, 2007
I recently realized it's been at least a decade since I ventured to Laguna Beach—a city now forever ingrained in America's collective... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Critical Masa: Lucias Tacos y Mulitas
, May 17, 2007
Mexico is a country where the melding of disparate traditions to form bewildering wonders is the national religion, yet nothing is quite as... More >>
Out of the Ashes Out of the Ashes
The delectable saga of Thai Nakorn enters its third act
, May 10, 2007
Thai Nakorn has suffered more knocks against it than the recently ousted Thai prime minister, Thaksin Shinawatra. Years ago, a developer coup... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
The Adobe Way: Taco Adobe #2
, May 10, 2007
It's always great to see a good restaurant become so successful that it opens a second location, and that's what recently happened with Taco... More >>
Fountain Valley Flash
Despite a few tacky sins, Aysya proves great
, April 26, 2007
Okay, let's start with some constructive criticism: Aysya in Fountain Valley needs to fix a couple of things, and fast. First, the name: It... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Food Court Peruvian: LIMA CITY
, April 26, 2007
Food courts are refuges for the desperate, thepeople who work blocks away from edible lunch options and don't care about bland grub as long as... More >>
The Gentrifying Gourmet The Gentrifying Gourmet
Learning to like Ambrosia
, April 19, 2007
Even the devil deserves some sympathy,as Mick Jagger once famously sang, and that's why I patronize Ambrosia in Santa Ana. It's the shining jewel... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Mothering Your Meat at Ku Wol San
, April 19, 2007
Blame Spike Lee. In his 1989 classic Do the Right Thing, the mercurial director forever typecast Korean entrepreneurs as rude, aloof, even... More >>
Fishing for Quality
Skip the rolls at Takaraya and go straight for the good stuff
, April 12, 2007
I've developed a few simple rules over the years for gauging the desirability of a sushi place. The main one, with apologies to the late Johnnie... More >>
Mystery Bean
THIS HOLE-IN-THE-WALL LIFE
, April 12, 2007
"You can't have that!" exclaimed the waiter at KL MALAYSIAN when I asked for the sambal petai. The menu described the dish as "petai beans in... More >>
Corn Dog Royalty
Finally, a reason to visit Disneys California Adventure
, April 05, 2007
When forced to think about Disney's California Adventure, the old Disneyland parking lot comes to mind. That's because Disneyland's bastard... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Mexican for gabachos
, April 05, 2007
Never, ever in my life had I visited a Mexican restaurant devoid of Mexicans until I visited CELINDA'S MEXICAN DELI in Rancho Santa Margarita.... More >>
Pasta Pasts and Futures
Georgina and Tony keep the old guard alive at Rufinos Ristorante Italiano
, March 29, 2007
The corner of Euclid Avenue and Ball Road in Anaheim is a ghost of sorts. The buildings date from the 1960s and once housed grocery stores,... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Cinammon bun fun at Side Street Cafe
, March 29, 2007
Located on one of those annoying mini-streets that run parallel to Newport Avenue near the 55 Freeway exit, SIDE STREET CAFE is a welcome... More >>
Beware the Larb
Diho Siams incendiary salads
, March 22, 2007
In the milquetoast world of salads, nothing compares to the meat salad called larb. It seems innocuous enough—warmed ground beef, chicken, pork... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Not Just Falafels
, March 22, 2007
OLIVE TREE RESTAURANT makes all the Middle Eastern favorites you probably tired of long ago: musky hummus and babaghanoush; slowly spinning... More >>
The New Times
Leatherbys Cafe Rouge a Grand Place to Watch the World Spin
, March 15, 2007
Ever try doing your job after getting socked again and again? Welcome to my week. As many of you know—and if you haven't heard: surprise!—the... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Pizza for Pesos: Chicago Pizza
, March 15, 2007
This past January, officials with the Dallas-based Pizza Patron chain enraged the John & Ken Nation by announcing they would accept pesos in lieu... More >>
Remembrance of Things Pasta
Basilicos is unforgettable
, March 08, 2007
Often lost in the immediacy of eating is the transcendent connection between taste and memory. Like, every time I eat spice cake I remember how... More >>
This Hole-in-the-Wall Life
Death by hog
, March 08, 2007
Orange County foodies have raved about the carnitas at CARNITAS LOS REYES for years—about the sublime fattiness of this shredded pork dish, about... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

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Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

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Go Dutch to the Dutch Club AVIO Go Dutch to the Dutch Club AVIO

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Ramen Zetton: Japanese Quesadillas!

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