Restaurant Reviews

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[Hole In the Wall] In Praise of Hot Taco's Goat On Wheels
, September 10, 2009
Let Us Now Praise Goat on WheelsBefore I rave about my latest find, a special announcement of my first food-related appearance: I will hang out... More >>
The Which Wich-ing Hour Has Arrived in OC for Those Other Sandwich Chains The Which Wich-ing Hour Has Arrived in OC for Those Other Sandwich Chains
, September 03, 2009
The Wiching HourOC’s only outpost of the Which Wich chain should have Subway and Quiznos quaking in their toastersMy first summer job as a teen... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Calzones Away at Buccaneer Pizza in Santa Ana
, September 03, 2009
Calzones Away!“Does the world need another pizza brand? No. Does the world need a better pizza brand? Absolutely,” reads the “About Us” page on... More >>
Batter Up at England Fish & Chips Batter Up at England Fish & Chips
, August 27, 2009
Batter Up!The deep-fried billy clubs of cod at England Fish & Chips will knock your taste buds (and your cholesterol level) for a loopIt was... More >>
[Hole In the Wall] Mondo Mediterranean Meals at Garden Grove's Kerostena Grill
, August 27, 2009
Mondo Mediterranean MealsYou can enter a self-identified Mediterranean restaurant for the first time, not even look at the menu, and rattle off... More >>
The Crosby Crosses Over Into Culinary Excellence The Crosby Crosses Over Into Culinary Excellence
, August 20, 2009
The Crosby Crosses OverThe food at the Santa Ana hipster hangout is now worthy of its owners’ lofty aspirations“It’s time for the Crosby’s... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Bring an Andean Appetite to Rollie's Bakery in Tustin
, August 20, 2009
Bring an Andean AppetiteWhat is it with Bolivians and bread? Each of the three local outlets for the Andean country’s cuisine also sells pan... More >>
25 Degrees Delivers on the Burgers, Overpromises on the Bordello 25 Degrees Delivers on the Burgers, Overpromises on the Bordello
, August 13, 2009
I CAN HAS HAWT WAITRSEZZ?In which our critic finds that 25 Degrees delivers on the ‘cheezburger’ part of its mission but overpromises on the... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] The Soup and Cubism Special at Cafe Picasso
, August 13, 2009
The Soup & Cubism SpecialBò kho tends to hide among its peers in the pantheon of Vietnamese soups—no restaurants in Little Saigon named after it... More >>
Go Around the World In 50 States (or Cities, or Regions, or Styles, or Whatever) Go Around the World In 50 States (or Cities, or Regions, or Styles, or Whatever)
, August 06, 2009
The World on Your PlateIn Orange County, you can go around the world in 50 states (or cities, or regions, or styles, or whatever) Next time some... More >>
Upscale Mexican (Finally) Done Right at SOL Cocina Upscale Mexican (Finally) Done Right at SOL Cocina
, August 06, 2009
Guacamole With SOLImagine your (non-permanent) surprise when you dig into the fresh, refined and delicious offerings from Deborah Schneider’s... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Chilly Salvation at Sno On the Go in Mission Viejo
, August 06, 2009
Sno On the Ow!What a wonderful time to get my four wisdom teeth pulled: in the middle of summer, with the cutest little sno-cone shop just opened... More >>
Andrei's Braises Consciousness About Sustainable Dining Andrei's Braises Consciousness About Sustainable Dining
, July 30, 2009
Braising ConsciousnessThough the website and full name of Andrei’s Conscious Cuisine & Cocktails tout the sustainability agenda, the only thing... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] You Got Your Chimichurri On My Tacos!
, July 30, 2009
You Got Your Chimichurri On My Tacos!To survive, Latino restaurants in OC usually serve their homeland’s treats alongside Mexican food—the... More >>
Bribery, Threats, Broken-Down Vehicles, Lawsuits, Pioneers, Good Food: Tales From OC's Taco Trucks Bribery, Threats, Broken-Down Vehicles, Lawsuits, Pioneers, Good Food: Tales From OC's Taco Trucks
, July 23, 2009
Tales From the Taco TrucksBribery, threats, broken-down vehicles, lawsuits, pioneers and good food: the lives of Orange County’s loncheros Joseph... More >>
Traditions Offers Cheap, Hot, Delicious North Indian Cuisine Traditions Offers Cheap, Hot, Delicious North Indian Cuisine
, July 23, 2009
Northern SpiceTraditions isn’t much to look at from the outside, but its delectable Indian dishes will sear themselves into your memory—and your... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Tasty Battleships at Alebrije's Grill Taco Trucks, Parked in Santa Ana
, July 23, 2009
Of Taco Trucks and BattleshipsYou’ll have to read my cover story to understand why these distinctively pink camiones are the Mendez v.... More >>
Eating Korean Fried Chicken and Getting Sauced at the Past Memories in Garden Grove Eating Korean Fried Chicken and Getting Sauced at the Past Memories in Garden Grove
, July 16, 2009
Fried and SaucedLoad up on the Korean fried chicken at the Past Memories, but watch out for the sweet soju-laced drinks and their sneaky,... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Chon Qing Mei Wei Heats Things Up
, July 16, 2009
Hot, Hot, Hot!This is the type of Chinese restaurant where the menu bumps into the triple digits and contains items ranging from the tried and... More >>
TK Burgers Refuses to Conform to the Numbing Sameness of a Fast-Food Chain TK Burgers Refuses to Conform to the Numbing Sameness of a Fast-Food Chain
, July 09, 2009
McDifferentTK Burgers refuses to conform to the numbing sameness of a fast-food chainNo one forced me to visit every outlet of TK Burgers, but I... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Don't Let the Milanesa Sandwich at Lina's Deli in Mission Viejo Become Extinct
, July 09, 2009
They Were ExpendableCan ustedes do me a big favor, gentle readers? It’s quite simple: Any time you eat at an American-style deli or sandwich... More >>
Brasserie Pascal Is the Restaurant Pascal Olhats Has Been Waiting to Do Brasserie Pascal Is the Restaurant Pascal Olhats Has Been Waiting to Do
, July 02, 2009
Blaze, PascalBrasserie Pascal is the restaurant Pascal Olhats has been waiting to do, and it’s worth the waitAs a friend of mine pointed out,... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Sweet Charity at Gyro N Kabob in Tustin
, July 02, 2009
Sweet CharityA down-on-their-luck couple went to each business in a Tustin shopping plaza asking for a free meal. None complied. They entered... More >>
The Other Other White Meat at Zen Vegetarian The Other Other White Meat at Zen Vegetarian
, June 25, 2009
The Other, Other White MeatThe meatless magicians at Westminster’s Zen Vegetarian sure know how to fake bake—and simmer, and broil, and fryEvery... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Sticking to It With Cambinos Asian BBQ
, June 25, 2009
Sticking to ItEdwin’s blurb of Cambinos in our recent Summer Guide only hinted at the marvels this place creates with a minimal staff, little... More >>
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Is Eleven46 Kitchen the Chipotle of Vietnamese Cuisine? Is Eleven46 Kitchen the Chipotle of Vietnamese Cuisine?

We all seem to think we know how to run a restaurant regardless of whether we've ever owned or operated one. So when you find yourself in a restaurant that… More >>

Lindo Michoacán #2: Fond of the Fonda

Here's the dirty secret about Mexicans in Orange County and Mexican food: most of us nos vale madre that so many regional treasures exist in these parts. If you're from… More >>

Carne Asada In OC Carne Asada In OC

Get with the Reconquista, people: This is carne asada country, so stop trying to slow-roast 'cue in some overpriced contraption, only to get results not worthy of a Memphis trash… More >>

Peking Dragon's Sweet-and-Sour Splendor Peking Dragon's Sweet-and-Sour Splendor

It was Sunday night at Peking Dragon Restaurant in Dana Point, one of only three Chinese eateries in the seaside city, and every Naugahyde booth was taken. You had to… More >>

Papa's Fish & Soul Food Is Super!

"That sauce bit you in the end, right?" the owner of Papa's Fish & Soul Food in Anaheim cracked from across the dining room, and I had to nod yes.… More >>

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