Restaurant Reviews

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[Hole in the Wall] Middle Eastern Pizza at Forn Al Hara in Anaheim
, November 12, 2009
Middle Eastern Pizza!Arab OC collectively wailed earlier this year when a fire destroyed Al Amir Bakery, one of only two restaurants in Orange... More >>
Javier's Cantina & Grill Gets Bested Javier's Cantina & Grill Gets Bested
, November 05, 2009
Bested!In which two food writers decide to check out our readers’ assertion that Javier’s is OC’s best restaurantWe may never know how Javier’s... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Translating Meals at Mami King in Buena Park
, November 05, 2009
Mami MealAs much as I love Filipino cuisine, a visit to their restaurants usually drives my Mexican mind loco. Their bastardization of Spanish!... More >>
Myung Dong Kal Guksu in Anaheim Is a Temple of Korean Hand-Cut Noodles Myung Dong Kal Guksu in Anaheim Is a Temple of Korean Hand-Cut Noodles
, October 29, 2009
The Temple of NoodlesFollow the crowds of Korean churchgoers to Myung Dong Kal Guk Su for heavenly helpings of hand-cut gloryTo paraphrase Isaac... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Argentinian Delights at Puerto Madero Market in Santa Ana
, October 29, 2009
Any Puerto In a StormI don’t like to review the same location twice—that is, a place that has hosted different restaurants over the years. But... More >>
Kula Offers Sushi Not As Art, But As a (Still Tasty) Commodity Kula Offers Sushi Not As Art, But As a (Still Tasty) Commodity
, October 22, 2009
Masters of (Almost) All They ConveyKula offers sushi not as art, but as an assembly-line commodity—a good commodity, thoughKula isn’t the first... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Throw Pho Quang Trung's Chicken Pho Before Swine (Flu)
, October 22, 2009
Chicken Pho Before Swine (Flu) If the Obama administration were truly smart, it would tell Big Pharma to slag off. Go cure AIDS or cancer; don’t... More >>
Fora is a Hidden Gem on Naples' Restaurant Row Fora is a Hidden Gem on Naples' Restaurant Row
, October 15, 2009
Fora Good TimeThe imaginative, delicious tasting menus star at this hidden gem of Naples’ restaurant rowIn a city as vast as Long Beach, the best... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Saved By Cemitas at Anaya's Catering in Santa Ana
, October 15, 2009
Saved By CemitasEvery week, ustedes ask me about wonderful restaurants that no longer exist. Santa Ana’s Nancy Puebla? Is now in Perris. Irie... More >>
[BEST OF OC] El Francés (the Frenchman): Pascal Olhats [BEST OF OC] El Francés (the Frenchman): Pascal Olhats
, October 08, 2009
Ask any OC restaurateur or foodie to name the county’s most iconic French chef, and they’ll likely say, “Pascal Olhats.” Olhats is the closest... More >>
[BEST OF OC] El Mesero (the Waiter): Rick Jones [BEST OF OC] El Mesero (the Waiter): Rick Jones
, October 08, 2009
Standing 6 feet, 9 inches tall, waiter Rick Jones cuts quite a figure at the old warhorse of oceanfront Orange County fine-dining establishments,... More >>
The Secret Menu at May Garden Opens Up a Whole New World of Taiwanese Tastes The Secret Menu at May Garden Opens Up a Whole New World of Taiwanese Tastes
, October 08, 2009
The Secret GardenIf you don’t have a friend who reads Chinese, get one, and a whole new world of Taiwanese tastes will unfold for you at May... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Beautiful Burgers at Lake Forest's Burger Town USA
, October 08, 2009
Beautiful Burgers In the ’BurbsThis joint would be a natural in Anaheim or Costa Mesa—but Lake Forest? Yet it has stood on Muirlands for years,... More >>
An Encyclopedic Beer Selection, Killer Burger Redeem the Uneven Debut of Haven Gastropub An Encyclopedic Beer Selection, Killer Burger Redeem the Uneven Debut of Haven Gastropub
, October 01, 2009
We’ll Always Have GuinnessAttentive service, an encyclopedic beer selection and a killer burger redeem the uneven debut of Haven Gastropub in... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Salvi Supper at Anita's
, October 01, 2009
Salvi SupperIf the pupusa is king in El Salvador, then the country’s tamales fall somewhere between viscount and baron in its culinary peerage: a... More >>
Vietnamese Cajun Crawfish With Funnel Cake for Dessert: Thank You, Q Restaurant Vietnamese Cajun Crawfish With Funnel Cake for Dessert: Thank You, Q Restaurant
, September 24, 2009
For the Funnel of ItVietnamese Cajun crawfish with funnel cake for dessert? Today, Q Restaurant. Tomorrow, the worldHave you caught on to the... More >>
[Hole In the Wall] Do the Jerky at Celestino's Meats
, September 24, 2009
Do the JerkyMan, is it packed in here! More than 30 types of sausages stacked so tightly in standup freezers you fear opening the door lest your... More >>
The Stepson Also Rises the Sushi-Bar Stardom at Nana San The Stepson Also Rises the Sushi-Bar Stardom at Nana San
, September 17, 2009
The Stepson Also RisesAt Nana San, sushi chef Goro Sakurai carries on the family tradition with style, taste and precisionMore than any other... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Cochinita Pibil and Beyond at Anepalco's Cafe in Orange
, September 17, 2009
Cochinita Pibil and BeyondAfter years of hiding in dives across Southern California, the Yucatan pork specialty known as cochinita pibil is now... More >>
Laguna Beach's French 75 Rises Above Its Confusing Corporate Past Laguna Beach's French 75 Rises Above Its Confusing Corporate Past
, September 10, 2009
The Last MusketeerThe remaining French 75 rises above its confusing corporate pastIt’s still a world of uncertainty out there, especially in the... More >>
[Hole In the Wall] In Praise of Hot Taco's Goat On Wheels
, September 10, 2009
Let Us Now Praise Goat on WheelsBefore I rave about my latest find, a special announcement of my first food-related appearance: I will hang out... More >>
The Which Wich-ing Hour Has Arrived in OC for Those Other Sandwich Chains The Which Wich-ing Hour Has Arrived in OC for Those Other Sandwich Chains
, September 03, 2009
The Wiching HourOC’s only outpost of the Which Wich chain should have Subway and Quiznos quaking in their toastersMy first summer job as a teen... More >>
[Hole in the Wall] Calzones Away at Buccaneer Pizza in Santa Ana
, September 03, 2009
Calzones Away!“Does the world need another pizza brand? No. Does the world need a better pizza brand? Absolutely,” reads the “About Us” page on... More >>
Batter Up at England Fish & Chips Batter Up at England Fish & Chips
, August 27, 2009
Batter Up!The deep-fried billy clubs of cod at England Fish & Chips will knock your taste buds (and your cholesterol level) for a loopIt was... More >>
[Hole In the Wall] Mondo Mediterranean Meals at Garden Grove's Kerostena Grill
, August 27, 2009
Mondo Mediterranean MealsYou can enter a self-identified Mediterranean restaurant for the first time, not even look at the menu, and rattle off... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Bistrot Massilia: Butter Up! Bistrot Massilia: Butter Up!

You realize the futility of having a reservation for Bistrot Massilia on the Thursday night before Mother's Day weekend when you get there. There's not a soul except for the… More >>

How Undercover Animal Rights Activists are Winning the Ag-Gag War How Undercover Animal Rights Activists are Winning the Ag-Gag War

Cody Carlson had no way of preparing for this moment. He was a Manhattan kid, days removed from working as an analyst for a business-intelligence firm, where he scrutinized corporations… More >>

Little Sparrow: An Auspicious Egg

Some food critics are of the opinion that you can't judge a restaurant in its opening weeks, that you need to give them time to work out any kinks. Some… More >>

At Inka Mama's, Mami Knows Best At Inka Mama's, Mami Knows Best

There used to be a different Peruvian restaurant at the very spot Inka Mama's has recently claimed as its fourth Orange County location. By all accounts, it did a very… More >>

Pho Quyen: Absolutely Sweet Little Saigon

We're now reaching a point in Little Saigon's history where the old-school places are slowly but surely changing. Some are closing shop; others are moving to richer environs in South… More >>

For a Hot Time In Old Huntington, Go to the Black Trumpet Bistro For a Hot Time In Old Huntington, Go to the Black Trumpet Bistro

The eateries you'll see on the 5-mile stretch of Beach Boulevard as it extends from the 405 down to Pacific Coast Highway can have the randomness of what sticks on… More >>

Chixy Natural: Twirl-a-Bird

"Hey, man, you still going to use that?" the surfer-ish type guy asked as I scarfed down my meal at Chixy Natural. Oh, my lack of manners! This Costa Mesa… More >>

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