Okay, I have a million other stories I have to get to before I go on vacation next week, and I should REALLY concentrate on them. But I nearly choked on my morning bourbon this morning when I saw Orange County Register food critic Brad A. Johnson's review of Tortas Sinaloa in SanTana, a place I reviewed way back in November.
First off, Johnson reviewing an OC restaurant? A rarity nowadays, ever since his corporate overlords asked him to focus more on the Los Angeles Register–so much for caring about OC, eh Aaron Kushner? Johnson couldn't even be bothered to do a full review of Tortas Sinaloa, devoting one of his Short Orders. The place definitely deserves a write-up–but then Johnson let the darker angels of his soul take over.
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After giving righteous shout-outs to the aguas frescas and tortas, Johnson ends with…French fries?
“Absolutely everything seems to be made from scratch except for the french fries,” Johnson wrote, “which are just ordinary frozen fries, which automatically come with all the sandwiches unless you speak up.”
Who the hell in this world would concentrate on FRENCH FRIES at a Mexican restaurant? Johnson would. As I wrote last year, on occasion of him being named America's worst restaurant critic by chefs, one of the main critiques lobbed at Johnson was that he is “obsessed with tearing apart everyone's french fries.” As I've stated before, I actually like Johnson's reviews (when he can be bothered to visit our county, that is). But reviewing French fries at a Mexican restaurant–where they're always given for the pochos and no other reason–is almost as big a sin as calling tacos “street.”
Brad: ¿qué chingada?
Email: ga*******@oc******.com. Twitter: @gustavoarellano.
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