Nothing Bundt Cakes: A Bittersweet Review
Anne Marie Panoringan

Nothing Bundt Cakes: A Bittersweet Review

Nothing Bundt Cakes is a national dessert shoppe that's been open well over a year in our neighborhoods, and we haven't reported much except that they existed. Why? I dunno, maybe because it's CLOSED every time we walk by. When we think cake, we think dessert. That time of day leisurely spent after dinner (because most have an hour or less at lunch). It's a treat, not a trick-- except at Tustin's District location.

Most of us don't even contemplate dessert until after 7, and yet you (still bitching at Tustin) are already shuttered four days of the week. The "generous" hour on Friday and Saturday helps somewhat, but you close on Sunday. Who do you think you are, Chick Fil-A? Even Costa Mesa offers four measly hours, but they're closed at 6 p.m. the rest of the time. How we found ourselves there 10 minutes to closing the other day is a miracle, so we decided to have a go.

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Our ideal cake attributes are few: A texture that's moist, and flavor that doesn't overpower. May also pair well with ice cream, if available. With 10 flavors staring back at us, we bucked popularity and went with our cravings. Cinnamon swirl and seasonal pumpkin spice would make for good company the next couple of days, as our cashier explained how they can last three nights covered on our counter, five in the fridge. The single serving bundtlets looked more shareable than individual. At least, that's what we kept telling ourselves.

The verdict: Cinnamon swirl was a cross between Entenmann's coffee and Sara Lee pound cake. Rich, yellow cake containing sugary sweetness. And that's before the cream cheese petals of icing. Our guilty conscience cut us off half-bundtlet. We enjoyed it too much. Our dose of pumpkin the following eve was delightful as soon as we flipped the lid. An aroma of cozy spices wafted and latched onto our senses like newborn's grip. Also super moist, it squashed recent pie and cheesecake memories of similar flavor with its borderline creaminess. For under five bucks a pop, it was our transition food into autumn.

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