No. 99: Tortilla Andorra at Anepalco's
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Anepalco's is rightfully celebrated for its traditionalist approach to French crepes and modernist take on Mexican meals, but folks sometimes forget chef/owner Danny Godinez also makes outstanding versions of tortillas--not the cornmeal cake of Latin America, but the meal that first attained the name, a sort-of omelet with ingredients placed on top of and cooked with a touch of olive oil. You usually find such tortillas at Argentine restaurants, but Godinez treats them in a purely Spanish vein, and none are finer than the tortilla Andorra, shown above.
The tortilla is cooked thin and crispy, like the best omelets, but these eggs are fluffier, creamier. I'm not sure where the Andorran part comes into this tortilla, but no matter: The Spanish-style chorizo is fatty but not oily, chewier like a salami, with a saltiness that plays well off the even-saltier goat cheese. The spring onions freshen the meal--and that's it, save the side of rosemary-scented potatoes. Simplicity at its yummiest--and, of course, Godinez's more-complex meals will make appearances later. But deviate from his chilaquiles and huevos divorciados every couple of weeks for this fillingdesmadre
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Anepalco's, 415 S. Main St., Orange, (714) 771-2333; anepalcoscafe.com.
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