No. 19: Salmon at Tavern On The Coast
Like Kasey Kasem, we're counting down the hits, except ours nourish your belly as well as your soul. Just a few weeks left in our listicle of listicles known as 100 Favorite Dishes (INSERT YEAR). YEAH!!!
Hey, don't ding us for listicles: Weekly DataLab studies show ustedes love this gimmick, launched in honor of our coming Best Of issue. Besides, it is rather fun to do this for us Forkers--an opportunity to highlight dishes from restaurants we'll never fully review, or secrets from old standbys. Anyhoo, let the march begin...
I rarely order salmon at restaurants because salmon is rarely done right. But I'd recommend everyone going to Tavern On The Coast to do so. Here was a piece of fish seasoned properly, pan-fried until a golden crust forms while the core remains supple, and then served so piping-hot the first few bites obliterated my upper palate.
When a piece of fish is cooked this well, what's served with it matters little. The first time I visited, chef and owner Bryan Podgorski rested his salmon atop the slippery pearls of Israeli couscous, nearly liquefied pearl onions, peas and carrots, the whole thing bland but designed that way, as the salmon was the star. The next month, he served it with rice pilaf and a red-wine reduction. It doesn't matter what he's pairing it with this month because no matter the accompaniment, each slab of salmon is prepared as exactingly as the last.
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