LA Weekly's Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold describes it this way:
If you like this story, consider signing up for our email newsletters.
SHOW ME HOW
You have successfully signed up for your selected newsletter(s) - please keep an eye on your mailbox, we're movin' in!
"The chicken at Grill Masters stands a cluck or two above the rest: extravagantly seasoned fowl cooked on rotating spits, perfumed with smoke, slow-roasted and glistening with juice, basted in its own fat plus probably a dozen other things, soft enough to eat with a spoon. And the skin! Like a thin sheet of crackly caramel, salty and drippy and saturated with herbs, chewy but taut and crisp enough to give way under your teeth with a magnificent thwack."
The staple of farmers' markets all over LA (the only way you can currently eat this bird) has now found a brick-and-mortar home in Irvine at Trabuco Grove, next to Tri-Village and Da Luau at the space once occupied by a pizza parlor.
The store windows are still blacked-out, but the sign outside indicates it hopes to open this summer.