Great Squash Pizza at Mesa

Everyone's trying to be a fancy pizza man nowadays gracias to the Mozza phenomenon. From Pizzeria Ortica's neo-Italian standards to Avanti Café's inventive pies, it's a welcome addition to the county's pizza scene. Add to the good ones some squash concoction at Mesa.

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Mesa switches up its menu to match the seasons, so I'm not sure how long this particular version will last. But this is what you can expect: earthy yellow and green squashes, with eggplants thrown in for a bit of smokiness. A dab of tomato sauce and goat-cheese nuggets. I only ate a slice, since my table gobbled up the rest--and they weren't even drunk! If you're ever looking for a vegetarian respite from the heaven-on-a-bun that is TK Burgers across Bristol Street and don't like getting ripped off by Native Foods, you have a winner. Now, if only Old Vine Café could offer a try...they would rule the world!

Mesa, 725 Baker St., Costa Mesa, (714) 557-6700.

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