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The California Burrito at Alejandro'sCosta Mesa, CaliforniaOne of a mishmash of o's -- Alerto's, Alejandro's, Alberto's, Rolando's -- colloquially referred to as "yellow-sign Mexican" because they all have the same backlit yellow plastic signs signaling twenty-four hours of grease and hot sauce. It's a hole. It's a stop on the way to the beach, or back from the beach. It's where you can find a wrap that pushes a pound, filled not just with carne asada but also that which defines West Coast fast-food: french fries. It's not just where the freeway ends and the Pacific Coast Highway leads into the boardwalk but also where crinkle fries become, truly become, part of the Mexican tradition. 24/7; 801 West Nineteenth Street;949-631-2561