Eat This Now: Sullungtang at Jang Mo Gip
Dave Lieberman

Eat This Now: Sullungtang at Jang Mo Gip

Buena Park doesn't get much foodie love, even though it's at the intersection of our burgeoning South Asian and Korean populations. The Indian and Pakistani restaurants, including our Best Indian Restaurant from 2011 (Namastey India), are migrating east from Artesia; the Koreans are bent on making Beach Boulevard one enormous buffet of great food from Garden Grove to La Mirada.

It's not all barbecue, though; Koreans are fond of a night out on the town, and when they have to deal with the suk-chwi (you know, la cruda) the following morning, they turn to soup. Jang Mo Gip, in Buena Park's ever-expanding Korean restaurant row, serves the classic, offal-filled haejangguk, but just as efficient at loosening the vise on the over-imbiber's head is sullungtang, or seolleongtang.

Seolleongtang is beef bone soup, with japchae (glass noodles, though you can ask for rice noodles, which are easier to bite off) and little slices of beef, and that's it. There are no vegetables floating in it; it's not broth poured around a salad like minestrone. The other thing is that it comes completely unseasoned; you add salt and chopped scallions from huge tubs on the table. Add, stir, taste; add, stir, taste. Then you can dump your rice and kimchi in if you like.

Before you know it, you'll have a cool glass of sweet ginger drink (great for the morning-after queasiness) to nurse and other, bleary-eyed people will be gazing longingly at your table.

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