Eat This Now: Salmon Skin Hand Roll at Gatten Sushi

Crunchtastic!
Crunchtastic!
Edwin Goei

Since Gatten is a conveyor belt sushi restaurant--arguably one of the most successful kaiten sushi chains in Southern California--Travel Host Andrew Zimmern's credo of "if it looks good, eat it" can be applied. There are the rainbow-tempura-crunch roll usuals, yet also other, more advanced sushi morsels such as sea urchin roe gunkan maki and natto. But the best thing to eat--the salmon skin roll--you have to order off the menu.

What they do to the salmon skin here (if I'm not mistaken) is deep-fry it into curls of so crunchy it drowns out any and all ambient noise when you bite into it. Most sushi joints bake or toast their salmon skin, so what Gatten has essentially done by frying is turned it into pork rinds before cramming the gnarled pieces into a nori cone with a little sushi rice, sauce, and veggies as though an overflowing cornucopia. And in your mouth, the sea chicharones crackle like gigantic sea-flavored Pop Rocks.

They're about $2 each, and after you order one you will want at least two more.

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Gatten Sushi

4517 Campus Dr.
Irvine, CA 92612

949-679-8322

www.gattenusa.com


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