Eat This Now: Hummus at Gogo's Pizza and Kabab

Hummus in its natural habitat
Hummus in its natural habitat
Photo by Charles Lam

Pizza gets top billing at Gogo's Pizza and Kabab, which is a little weird to me because their pizza is just so-so. No, if you ever find yourself at that weird little take-out counter in Costa Mesa, you want to be ordering from the "kabob" [Gogo can't decide on their preferred spelling] half of the menu.

The take-out containers there are as they should be, piled to the breaking point with perfectly cooked basmati, charred veggies, and meat so juicy you have to be careful not to let it accidentally slip down your throat.

But the best quarter of the container is reserved for their hummus. A pool of garbanzo beans, garlic, tahini, and lemon juice so wonderful, you won't believe you got it from a place connected to a liquor store. The paste looks unassuming at first, especially next to the hunks of meat, but it shimmers slightly from the olive oil poured on top. The longer you stare at it, the more it calls to you, telling you to spread some of it on top of the pita bread you got with your plate.

And it's good that you're using gogo's paper thin pita, because the hummus is what you want to taste. Rich from the oil and garlic and smooth but bright still from the lemon, why would you want to weigh it down with a heavier bread? The wispy bread is fine, and the next time you visit Gogo's, you'll never think of ordering the pizza again.

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