Cheese roll of the gods
Cheese roll of the gods
Photo by The Mexican

Eat This Now: Cheese Rolls from BREAD Artisan Bakery at Santa Ana Farmers' Market

When the SanTana Farmers' Market opens Thursday afternoon, as it does every Thursday, be there at 4 p.m. More specifically, be at the basket of BREAD Artisan Bakery that's holding the cheese rolls. Do not be any later than 3:59--DO NOT. If you do, best of luck-actually, shame on you, because by then the hordes would've probably already cleared out the Farmers' Market breakout star: BREAD's cheese rolls.

Eaten at room temperature, the rolls are spectacular: cheese splotches reduced to cracklins, bread as fluffy as cotton candy inside, with jalapeños judiciously placed throughout. But put it through the oven for just a bit, and BREAD's cheese rolls transform into the divine. A sheen of cheese melts out of its fried prison to impart a comforting cheddar taste. The bread bubbles inside steam up just the tiniest bit, adding warmth with each bite. And the edges of the roll become bacon--there's just no other way to describe it.

But, again: get there at 3:59. I once got there at 4:45--laughable. "No more cheese rolls," the nice man who runs BREAD's stand told me. "You think they'll be available at this time next week?" I asked. "Nope," he replied.

DUDE, NO CHILL. 3:58 it is, then...

Follow the Santa Ana Farmers' Market on Instagram @garellano@ocweekly.com. Twitter: @gustavoarellano.

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