Dueling Dishes: Battle Hipster Blueberry Doughnuts
Blueberry doughnuts displayed at Anaheim's M&M Donuts
Two hours. That's the reported length of the line to get blueberry doughnuts at M&M in Anaheim, if the shrieking horde of hipsters on Yelp is to believed. Two hours stood in a dreary parking lot in a section of Anaheim that's desperately trying to slough off its run-down past, watching men smoke on the patio.
Blueberry doughnuts from M&M
Fortunately, hipsters hate getting wet (rain soaks through Chucks like you can't believe and rinses moustache pomade out in no time at all), so a drizzly Tuesday morning meant there was no barrier for the hapless volunteer who went to buy doughnuts. No line at all--just doughnuts, which cost nearly $9 a dozen, and a giant sign in the window that says that blueberry doughnuts will not be sold in quantities greater than two dozen.
The screaming Yelpers have waxed lyrical about these particular doughnuts, but they're certainly not the only blueberry doughnuts in the county; the way they go on about it, you'd think these were exclusive products. They're not--many doughnut shops have them, including Mag's Donuts in Irvine.
The doughnuts are not exactly the apotheosis of round, sweet breakfast cake. Judged solely on taste, they're not particularly compelling at all. The blueberry flavor, as our own Shuji admits in his article declaring them number 57 in our list of 100 tastes of Orange County, is patently fake. The blueberries inside are clearly not fresh blueberries, and the flavor is just barely this side of chemical.
The thing everyone loves about M&M blueberry doughnuts is the crunchy outside--just enough to be meaningful, but not enough to be potentially damaging to the teeth. The crunch was, as promised, great--but it was followed up by a mouthful of rubbery cake that bounced back unappealingly. Still, that crunch!
Blueberry doughnuts under
Mag's blueberry doughnuts lacked the crunch, but the cake was like any other good cake doughnut, not elastic or rubbery at all. The taste was nearly identical to M&M's, which lends credence to Shuji's assertion that all doughnut shops get their mixes from the Cambodian Donut Mafia. It's a hard choice, but yes, M&M's blueberry doughnuts are better.
Mag's blueberry doughnut--upside-down, sorry!
Honestly, though--even though I'm handing the victory to M&M here--Mag's is a better choice. They've got a far, far wider selection than M&M, nicer service, and most importantly, the biggest line is on Saturday mornings and is rarely more than half a dozen Irvine weekend warrior dads deep.
Regardless of the outcome, the M&M blueberry doughnuts are most certainly not worth two hours' wait, and I'd still rather have a blueberry fritter from Tim Horton's in downtown Canada than either Mag's or M&M's blueberry doughnut.
M&M Donuts, 1614 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim; Mag's Donuts, 18066 Culver Dr., Irvine. Additional locations at 1280 Bison Ave. #B1, Newport Beach, and at 2947 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa.
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