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  • Article

    Rubens Bakery

    Photo by Tenaya HillsIn a day devoted to venerating the Divine, my favorite Sunday rite remains the morning drive to Ruben's Bakery, a ramshackle panadera between Fullerton's Mexican barrio and the city's expanding hipster downtown. I try to visit ...

    on April 14, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Weekling Haunts

    When lunchtime comes, we Weeklings disperse to the same restaurants--one place for pho, another for pad Thai, and all the way to Tustin for ferocious southern Indian. So for those of you wanting to ask the Mexican, kiss the Commie or argue with the ...

    on April 14, 2005
  • Article

    Natural Selection - Survival of the fittest at the Natural Products Expo

    Photo by Tenaya HillsLike everybody else at the convention, I am the opposite of a hypochondriac: when I swallow something that's supposed to be good for me, I can absolutely feelrejuvenation flood through each of my body's 70 trillion cells. So whe...

    by ELIZABETH GLAZNER on April 14, 2005
  • Article

    Kokona Hut

    Photo by Amy TheligChopped into gulp-sized chunks, battered with sweet rice flour, marinated for 24 hours, then tossed into the fryer until each piece transforms into a bouncy, almost tissue-like mass, the mochiko chicken at Kokona Hut in Placentia ...

    on April 7, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Restaurants I Forgot

    Editing this Grub Guide requires not only that I come up with weekly cutesy groupings, but also that I remember to rotate restaurants so all 622 entries in our online dining guide eventually get some print love. But I am not a perfect carousel--the ...

    on April 7, 2005
  • Article

    Less Whining By More Wining - Appreciating the ways of the oenophile at Tannins

    Photo by Tenaya Hills"Mine's the Fat Bastard," my charming companion enthused. Then she thought about what she had just said. "Or maybe it's yours. Or mine. Wait--which one do you think is fruitier?" "Mine is fruitier," I replied authoritatively...

    on April 7, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Giving Your Joint a Name

    It takes quite a bit of huevosto name a restaurant after yourself, but it's an eatery tradition as hallowed as disappearing silverware. And while popular culture reveres the Pucks, the Joes and the McDonald's of the world, our local restaurateurs ge...

    on March 31, 2005
  • Article

    El Paraiso

    Photo by Matt OttoAmongst the well-manicured lawns of Lake Forest, in between rows of suburbia and the ceaseless traffic of El Toro Road, is El Paraso, a sweaty, loud, unkempt Salvadoran restaurant that outdoes any Santa Ana establishment in steadf...

    on March 31, 2005
  • Article

    Gone Lenten - Knifing whoopee-cushion beliefs at California Fish Grill

    Photo by Matt OttoDespite the boy buggering, despite the lies, despite the record-breaking $100 million sex-abuse settlement, I remain Catholic. But the years-long perfidy of Orange diocese Bishop Tod D. Brown has finally, painfully provoked a perso...

    on March 31, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Colorful Restaurants

    Spring is icumenin, and with it arrives the blooming of love, Jesus and colors. Lots of colors. So instead of picking posies at the park, why not admire the spectrum of tones in the names of some of Orange County's better eateries? DINNERFORTWO: ...

    on March 24, 2005
  • Article

    Banh Mi, Dont Be a Hero - Trawling for the countys best Vietnamese sandwiches

    Photo by Amy TheligAmericanslikemeat:many-prongedracksof rib, porterhouses the size of Phoenix, sandwiches so turgid with multifold cold cuts they could choke a Hungarian porn star. But you need class and health served alongside that nice processed ...

    by PROFESSOR SALT on March 24, 2005
  • Article

    Tasteful Gentrification - Oranges District Lounge kicks out drunken Mexicans for good-ol-boy chow

    Photo by Tenaya HillsFordecades,LosVacitoswasOldTowne Orange's dirty brown secret: a dingy pool hall off the Circle frequented by Mexican men who weren't afraid to brawl with one another or the crusty gabachosat Paul's Place next door. Los Vacitos w...

    on March 17, 2005
  • Article

    Tea and A - Enjoying the beautiful ambience, ass conversations at the Tea House on Los Rios

    Photo by Tenaya HillsItwasadampday,prettyandgraysotheflowers (so carefully cultivated to look wild and blowsy) overrunning the Los Rios Historic District would pop like posies against an English sky. It was all terribly WutheringHeights:the low, mis...

    by REBECCA SCHOENKOPF on March 10, 2005
  • Article

    The Curtain Strikes Back - Meson G Shows LA How We Do it in the Culinary OC

    Photo by Amy TheligLastNovember,NewportBeachrestaurateursTim and Liza Goodell opened their first Los Angeles restaurant, the Spanish-influenced Meson G--and LA food critics went livid. LAWeeklyfood god Jonathan Gold veered from his usually positive ...

    on March 3, 2005
  • Article

    Espresso Your Love - Remembering paninis and the Italian boy who got away at Kaffa

    Photo by Lara MontagneHey,recentuniversitygrads:Rememberyour backpack adventures across Europe? Those squeaky hostel bunk beds? That swarthy Italian boy? The rumpled journal that housed extensive reflections on the best bars, cafs and places you sh...

    by SARAH CALLENDER on February 24, 2005
  • Article

    Familia Feud - Mexican bigotry vs. Cuban class at Habana Cafe

    Photo by Amy TheligThe garlic. What's with the garlic? Two charming sisters and I huddled in the foyer of Habana Caf, a year-old Huntington Beach restaurant that has firmly established itself alongside Felix's and Habana at the Lab as purveyors o...

    on February 17, 2005
  • Article

    Ramen Wars! - Slurping through Orange Countys steamiest Ramen bowls

    Photo by Tenaya HillsThis year marks the 20th anniversary of the Japanese film Tampopo, the movie that did to ramen what Spellbound did to the National Spelling Bee. Foreign audiences got a wonderfully appetizing look into the serious world of these...

    by PROFESSOR SALT on February 10, 2005
  • Article

    Pleased to Meat You - You plug it, Brees Quality Meats turns it into chops, steaks and what-have-you

    Photo by Amy TheligWhen a buddy of mine recently returnedfrom bagging a feral hog in the rolling hills of Riverside County's Big Horn Canyon Ranch, he encountered an unexpected problem: no local butcher wanted it. He visited all the famous butcher...

    by THEO DOUGLAS on February 3, 2005
  • Article

    High-Class Slumming - Low lights, small plates and big flavors at Motif

    Photo by Tenaya HillsMy charming companion andI had already spent a good half-hour running around the St. Regis Resort Monarch Beach like Iowans. We stared gape-jawed at the opulent fountains, ooohed the diamond-crusted sandals encased within a bout...

    on January 27, 2005
  • Article

    A Dosa Heaven - Ripping through edible juggernauts at Dosa Place

    Photo by Amy TheligBefore Super Size, before the foot-long hoagie, there was the dosa: a South Indian crepe made of mixed rice and yellow bean flour and stuffed with some sumptuous bulk, griddled until the skin is a glimmering brown and rolled up un...

    on January 20, 2005
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From the Print Edition

O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne

"Would you like a mimosa or champagne?" the server asks as you're seated at O'Neill's Bar & Grill inside the Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club in Mission Viejo. "A mimosa, please," you… More >>

Front Porch Pops: Just Lick 'Em

So . . . I'm getting married soon. I've picked some of my favorite businesses to help out with the catering—Taco Maria's Carlos Salgado and Roland Rubalcava to do aguachile… More >>

Santa Ana Revival at the North Left Santa Ana Revival at the North Left

The North Left is what replaced the Crosby, which closed abruptly earlier this year in the wake of a tragic beating death that occurred outside its doors. But for all… More >>

Tamarindo Truck: Maestro de Meats

Tamarindo Truck doesn't need this review. It's already a popular luxe lonchera, finding a loyal following with its twists on Mexican food using organic produce and meats. I've delayed reviewing… More >>

Mangia, Mangia Pirozzi's Meatballs Mangia, Mangia Pirozzi's Meatballs

I'm pretty sure I've not had a meatball as scrumptious or as soft as the ones Alessandro Pirozzi is serving at Pirozzi, his new restaurant in Corona del Mar. And… More >>

Fa-Sai's Dawn of Thai-Mex

Location, location, location! Restaurants live and die by where they set up shop. I wish someone had told that to the folks behind Fa-Sai Thai when they decided to open… More >>

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