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  • Article

    Captain Bombay's

    Photo by Erin SmithErnest Hemingway talks to me all the time here--really, him and not the poster of him behind the dilapidated bar. No one ever notices my conversations with Hemingway at Captain Bombay's, and if they did, all they would hear is Pap...

    by JOSEPH SCHIFFMAN on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Great Restaurant Logos

    On a recent drive through Irvine, I stumbled upon a most inventive ad: jostling for space amongst lawn signs for various candidates in the upcoming 48th Congressional District primary was one for the city's Ray's Pizza that read "Ray's Pizza for Lun...

    on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    Caraz Dulzura

    In Peru, the city of Caraz Dulzura occupies a mountainous region so idyllic some call it the Switzerland of the Andes. In Anaheim, Caraz Dulzura resides in somewhat grittier environs--across the street from Anaheim High School, close to an auto repa...

    on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    Pauls Cocktails

    Photo by Tenaya HillsI started haunting Paul's Cocktails as soon as the law let me and can't exactly remember when I've ever left. Paul's is dive bar perfection, a place where souses of varying caliber can co-exist without judgment under the laissez...

    by ERIN SMITH on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Cheese

    Cheese is in again, with many households stocking up on the fromage of various countries and animals (haven't had camel's cheese? Oh, you poor soul). But most restaurants still settle for the standards--Parmesan, Cheddar, Romano. These eateries, how...

    on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    Fast, Hot, Cheap, Delicious - A & J Restaurant brings northern Chinese food to Irvinelike salted soymilk!

    Photo by Matt OttoSalted soymilk isn't the most attractive breakfast. Neither solid nor liquid, it's a clumpy porridge of oatmeal and herbs. The orange hue comes from the dried shrimp, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar and pork flakes that mingle and f...

    by BONNIE YUET-YEN HO on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    Swift Souffle Serenade - Non-hurried, elegant dining at Savoies Fare

    Photo by Tenaya HillsTime was running short. My dining partner had a concert to attend; a night of romance awaited me. We had finished our fabulous dinner at Savoie's Fare in Laguna Niguel and now eagerly awaited the Grand Marnier souffl our charmi...

    on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    JC Fandango

    Photo by Jack GouldI can spend just one week leaning against the marbled bar at JC Fandango and see the entirety of the human experience pass: metaleros with enough steel on their torn jackets to warp a compass; nervous gabachas overdressed for thei...

    on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    Franco's Italian Restaurant

    "This is the best cheesecake in the world," bragged the Argentine waiter at Franco's Italian Restaurant, and I had no reason to doubt him. I had just spent my lunch charmed by the homey yet elegant meals at this tiny Cypress restaurant, where the ta...

    on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    Great Food Moments in Weekly History

    Photo by Tenaya HillsThere are at least three kinds of culinary adventures: eating food that's bad--terrifyingly, esophageally wounding (in this paper's very first issue, my predecessor Tom Vasich was legitimately offended by the poor taste of most ...

    on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Southern Comfort

    Here's a list of Orange County soul food and Cajun restaurants, in remembrance of the calamity in New Orleans. Grace them with your business and company. Ask them to donate any extra food or profits to America's Second Harvest (www.secondharvest.org...

    on September 15, 2005
  • Article

    Like a Womans Chest - The Rupee Room and the righteousness of plate licking

    Photo by Heather XI've tasted many a flavorful sauce in my food critic days: nutty tahini over the finest falafel on the planet, relishy Bolivian salsa with murmurs of mint and cheese, Vietnamese lemongrass butter so electric I order an extra mound ...

    on September 15, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Pork

    Sorry, Jews and Muslims: we eat pig this week. Yes, there are other delicious non-pork items at the following restaurants, but the rest of us goyim and kaffirs should concentrate on the sweet, infidel hog at each location. DINNER FOR TWO: ...

    on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    East Coast Hot dogs

    Photo by Tenaya HillsIf Huntington Beach is the last stronghold of Orange County's white working class, then the shopping plaza on the corner of Beach Boulevard and Garfield Avenue is its culinary Little Bighorn, the place where you find grand, epon...

    on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    A New York Steak of Mind - The Corner Broilers great meats and extraordinary roasted bell pepper soup

    Photo by Amy TheiligMidway through dinner at the Corner Broiler in Lake Forest, two little girls walked in lugging bags of pork chops. Greeting them warmly was owner Chris Siedenburg, a short, buzz-cut man with the trim physique of a Whiting Ranch h...

    on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    Kochee Kabob House

    Photo by Jonathan HoAfter a years-long drought, Orange County now hosts two Afghan restaurants: Orange's Amazing Kabob House and Kochee Kabob House, across the street from UC Irvine. It's a claustrophobic place despite the Irvine address; noisy with...

    on August 25, 2005
  • Article

    Plum Pickings - Two grand ways to eat at Kappo Suzumaru

    Photo by Heather XWhen you think of local Japanese culture, you might think of Costa Mesa's high-energy ramen shops and supermarkets, the spare serenity of the Noguchi Sculpture Garden across from South Coast Plaza, Anaheim's Zen Buddhist temples, o...

    on August 25, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Ice Cream and Other Frozen Delights

    Every couple of Saturdays or so, I'm a guest on KCRW-FM 88.9's excellent program Good Food, where I rap with host Evan Kleiman about the best Orange County eats. One of the eateries we'll soon discuss is Garden Grove's Delicias de Mxico, the wondro...

    on August 18, 2005
  • Article

    Ricas Tortas Ahogadas

    Photo by Matt OttoThere's a couple of Orange County loncheras trained in the art of the torta ahogada--the tasty, salsa-soaked sandwich native to the Mexican city of Guadalajara that's quite possibly the spiciest foodstuff on earth. Unfortunately, a...

    by Gustavo Arellano on August 18, 2005
  • Article

    This Week in Buffets

    The Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel (which is actually in Dana Point--go figure) just restarted its Friday night seafood buffet and Sunday brunch. I hear these all-you-can-eats are worthy of the Shah, but there's no way I can afford the $55 for the Frida...

    on August 11, 2005
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From the Print Edition

Little La Lune: Over the Moon Little La Lune: Over the Moon

Little La Lune is located on an unpretty part of Pacific Coast Highway, in a strip mall with less than 10 parking spots—and they're all taken. But stay in your… More >>

Il Barone Bottega: Third Wave Italian

Il Barone, in that section of Newport Beach near John Wayne Airport that's basically a laid-back Irvine, is great old-school Italian, the kind of place you take the in-laws to… More >>

O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne O'Neill's Breakfast of Champagne

"Would you like a mimosa or champagne?" the server asks as you're seated at O'Neill's Bar & Grill inside the Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club in Mission Viejo. "A mimosa, please," you… More >>

Front Porch Pops: Just Lick 'Em

So . . . I'm getting married soon. I've picked some of my favorite businesses to help out with the catering—Taco Maria's Carlos Salgado and Roland Rubalcava to do aguachile… More >>

Santa Ana Revival at the North Left Santa Ana Revival at the North Left

The North Left is what replaced the Crosby, which closed abruptly earlier this year in the wake of a tragic beating death that occurred outside its doors. But for all… More >>

Tamarindo Truck: Maestro de Meats

Tamarindo Truck doesn't need this review. It's already a popular luxe lonchera, finding a loyal following with its twists on Mexican food using organic produce and meats. I've delayed reviewing… More >>

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