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  • Article

    Assal Pastry

    Photo by Jessica CalkinsIn a race toward cultural indifference, rice pudding and rhubarb pie are dead even, unless your rice pudding is sholeh zard, Iran's literally breathtaking version of the simple dessert. Its secret is saffron. But it's not muc...

    on January 29, 2004
  • Article

    Super Bowled-Over - A county buffalo wings primer

    Photo by OCW staffWhile attending college in snowy South Bend, Indiana, my friends and I had a standing Tuesday-night date at Buffalo Wild Wings (BW3's for short), a Midwestern chain specializing in Buffalo-style chicken wings. For just 30 cents per...

    by ELLEN GRILEY on January 29, 2004
  • Article

    Tikal Tienda y Restaurante

    Photo by Matt OttoAsk to dine in at Tikal Tienda in Santa Ana, and the matronly Mayan owner shepherds you past shelves of Guatemalan produce toward a claustrophobic back room. Your supper experience will take place in this tiny grocery's storage spa...

    on January 22, 2004
  • Article

    M & Mmmmmm - Go for the soul food, stay for the soul food

    Photo by Joy WeberHaving drained our usual 25 cups of coffee one recent chilly day, the wife and I needed protein to counterbalance the caffeine. This was a job for one of the area's best barbecue joints. M&M Soul Food in Long Beach is the place t...

    by THEO DOUGLAS on January 22, 2004
  • Article

    Nikos Cafe & Restaurant

    Photo by Jessica CalkinsThey don't make places like Niko's Caf & Restaurant anymore, and maybe that's a good thing. The Fullerton restaurant's once-plush carpet bears the skid marks of a thousand strollers. Hanging throughout the Googie-style build...

    on January 8, 2004
  • Article

    Shes a Brick . . . Wall - Revisiting a Friendship at LHirondelle

    Photo by Tenaya HillsOf all the women who have crossed my life as a pseudo-Casanova, Araceli was the most enticing. We never experienced any romantic tension--I destroyed any chance of that back in 10th grade after I compared her emotional qualities...

    on January 8, 2004
  • Article

    This Hole-in-the-Wall Life - Banh Mi Cho Cu

    Photo by Joy WeberThe Bnh M Cho Cu experience--from entering to ordering to banging out the door--lasts about three minutes even during the most hectic hours. Don't stop to inhale the odors of ripe fruit and fried flour. "Yes?!" the attractive cas...

    by Gustavo Arellano on December 25, 2003
  • Article

    Habanero Xanadu - Red Rock Chilis Scorched Throat Policy

    Photo by Matt OttoChuck wagon cooks accompanying cowboys on long cattle drives invented chili. Or maybe it was prisoners trying to disguise the taste of the rancid meat that wardens forced on them. But whatever tale is true (or truer), culinary scho...

    by Rich Kane on December 25, 2003
  • Article

    This Hole-in-the-Wall Life - Rasthal Vegetarian Cuisine

    Photo by Jessica CalkinsBetween an Indian produce store and seedy liquor mart in Anaheim now stands Rasthal Vegetarian Cuisine, the only county restaurant specializing in the astounding meat-free diet of southern India. This ain't your Green Party f...

    on December 18, 2003
  • Article

    The Bemusement Stops Here - Scallops, Meatloaf and More at the Green Parrot Cafe

    Photo by Tenaya HillsA friend took me to dinner last week. It was a fancy dinner at one of the county's fancier restaurants, but I was early and he was late. Although the restaurant hosted only two tables worth of diners, it was 15 minutes before I ...

    by REBECCA SCHOENKOPF on December 18, 2003
  • Article

    Wild Artichoke Hearts Cant Be Broken - Rustic Elegance in the Yorba Linda Badlands

    Photo by Joy WeberTakes a special kind of kook to appreciate the artichoke. Sure, gourmands of yore celebrated the thistly plant for its aphrodisiacal powers: proper manners prohibited women from consuming the vegetable until Catherine de Medici pro...

    on December 11, 2003
  • Article

    This Hole-In-The-Wall Life - Globe European Delicatessen

    Photo by Tenaya HillsThe meat counter at Globe European Delicatessen is a long-as-a-Cadillac cornucopia of sausages of every grind, animal and taste. There are gooey pork blood sausages; Polish and Lithuanian veal cuts with a crusty outer skin; brat...

    on December 11, 2003
  • Article

    This Hole-In-The-Wall Life - GEgg Rolls, Etc.

    Photo by Matt OttoNaming a restaurant Egg Rolls, Etc., implies that the eatery specializes in various versions of Asia's preferred fried snack. This recently opened Orange establishment, however, creates but one kind--lumpia, the Filipino type that'...

    on December 4, 2003
  • Article

    Paris Hilton, Pinot Noir & Moi - Devouring Lamburgers and Juicy Gossip at Plums

    Photo by John PickelleThough I'm one of her most insatiable admirers, I have to admit I'm terribly disappointed in Paris Hilton's recent activities. There's no excuse, none whatsoever for the disrespect she's shown the public. After all, how's one t...

    by STEPHEN LEMONS on December 4, 2003
  • Article

    This Hole-In-The-Wall Life - El Carbonero #1 & #2

    Photo by Rain LaneCall it Guanaco Row: two restaurants, a caf, a courier service, a travel agency and a beauty salon/record store side by side on Santa Ana's Main Street between Richland and Highland. It's the epicenter of the county's 100,000 guan...

    on November 27, 2003
  • Article

    Tax Shelters, Riding Crops and Grand Marnier - Dining With the Swells at Gemmells in Dana Point

    Photo by Tenaya Hills "Not another French restaurant in Dana Point!" exclaimed my sable-haired puss-in-boots, the illustrious Madame X, when I informed her that we would be taking our evening meal at Gemmell's on Golden Lantern Street, near the harb...

    by STEPHEN LEMONS on November 27, 2003
  • Article

    This Hole-In-The-Wall Life

    Photo by Joy WeberSunset falls, and the until-then-empty Al Waha B.B.Q. Family Restaurant quickly crowds with Muslim families breaking their Ramadan fast. The buffet table, initially invisible under platters of rice hills, spiced salads, and meats o...

    on November 20, 2003
  • Article

    Some Ziing New - Our salacious savant seeks vintage erotica and miso-seared ahi in historic Fullerton

    Photo by Tenaya HillsThis week's fine-dining experience takes us to the exotic burg of Fullerton and its restaurant row on Harbor Boulevard, where Ziing's "Asian-influenced" Chinese bistro makes its home. Okay, I'll come clean: I was actually in tow...

    by STEPHEN LEMONS on November 20, 2003
  • Article

    This Hole-In-The-Wall Life

    Photo by Tenaya HillsMeet nikuman, the world's cutest sandwich. Puffier than a cumulus cloud and the approximate size of a small baby, nikuman is the flour world's eternal newborn: a bun with a globular, smooth exterior unsullied by burns or crust b...

    on November 20, 2003
  • Article

    Randy Revolutionaries - Stephen Lemons tries keeping his shirt clean at Mirabeau

    Photo by John PickelleOne of the perils of penning a restaurant column for someone of my ample paunch is the monthly laundry bill, which my dear editor obstinately refuses to pay. After all, those driblets of food and bevy down the front of my boile...

    by STEPHEN LEMONS on November 20, 2003
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From the Print Edition

Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery Eureka! It's a Burger Discovery

If I told you that you can have a burger and beer at Eureka! (their exclamation point, not mine), the new restaurant in Huntington Beach's Bella Terra, that'd be enough,… More >>

Sahuayo Primo Offers Pig By the Pound

They sit there at Sahuayo Primo in SanTana all the time: golden sheets or strips of chicharrones, fried morning, noon and night, slowly baking under hot lamps. The stacks of… More >>

Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name Wei Shian: A Noodle By Any Other Name

If you happen to find yourself slurping braised beef noodle soup in Irvine, you're likely in a Taiwanese restaurant. The big names in town—A & J, Lao Dong, Chef Hung—are… More >>

Burrito Madness at Paul's Famous Burgers

California is America's burrito empire, from the Mission cylindrical god of San Francisco to San Diego's California burrito to the Inland Empire's garbage burrito, which I described to a friend… More >>

Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi Samurai Burrito: The Subway of Sushi

Do you turn up your nose at those sushi bar Know-Nothings who would make a thick, creamy sludge out of their soy sauce and wasabi? Do you know what brand… More >>

Ellie's Table At North Beach: A Line of Good

Don't mind the sign near the entrance of Ellie's Table At North Beach that says, "Line Starts Here." Actually, scratch that: If there is a line, follow it. But in… More >>

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